THERE is a certain vibe about Cologne that has little to do with the architecture. Yes, it has an unmistakable cathedral of which the city’s inhabitants are immensely proud, and an elegant Belgian Quarter and old town.

Above all, Cologne, in my experience, is a feeling. I have been lucky enough to spend a lot of time there in recent years and the warmth of the locals invariably shines through, even on a gloomy, overcast day. There is a certain joie de vivre, stemming from the city’s rich carnival tradition and reflected in the distinctive Koelsch dialect, which can bamboozle visitors from other parts of Germany.

Last Monday, with a free day after commentating on the German Supercup in Frankfurt, where Eintracht were flattened by the omnipotent Bayern steamroller, I felt a gravitational pull. The team I, many years ago, developed a soft spot for, 1. FC Koeln, were at home for the first time since suffering relegation to the second tier. Anticipating a 50,000 sell-out against Union Berlin, I had bought my ticket weeks in advance. It was a good decision.

I never make an apology for saying Koeln, as close to the German spelling of the club as possible, despite the lack of an umlaut symbol on many English language keyboards. After all, Napoli are not Naples, and we don’t refer to Seville when we mean Sevilla. You get my drift.

To be fair, they have many labels. In Germany, Koeln can also be “FC” (Eff-zeh). An alternative is “die Geissboecke” (the Billy Goats) more on which to come later. In the city and environs, “Koelle” is often the preferred pronunciation of the city.

When I first began attending Bundesliga matches as a student in the ’80s, Koeln were among the league’s true powers, fuelled by greats such as Pierre Littbarski and later, Thomas Haessler. Recent times have been something of a rollercoaster but last season took the biscuit. After wildly celebrating a first European qualification for 25 years, Koeln fell all the way to the bottom

In bad times and good, they have always been highly likeable and as a fan attending matches, you are immediately part of a wider Rhineland community. It starts with the journey on the S-Bahn, travelling the four miles west from the city centre to the RheinEnergie-Stadion, picking up multitudes of excited red-and-white clad supporters on the way.

The stadium itself is the perfect rectangular shape, easy to get to and walk around after passing the myriad temptations provided by sausage and beer vendors.

What I particularly enjoy is the 30 minutes or so leading up to kick-off. There are smiles aplenty and witty remarks as the teams are announced and Hennes is introduced to the crowd. Who’s he? Hennes VIII is the team mascot. The tradition dates back to the early ’50s when then coach Hennes Weisweiler was presented with a goat by the director of the local circus. Weisweiler promptly named the goat after himself and by 1954, its likeness formed part of the official shirt. Koeln like to be different.

The current Hennes, the eighth of his name, has been on the scene since 2008 and resides in Cologne zoo except on match days.

The last piece of pre-match theatre has a vaguely Scottish connection. The official FC anthem is sung to the distinctive tune of Loch Lomond. Now, it should be explained that Runrig had a big hit with it across Germany nearly three decades ago. A local band, “die Hoehner”, took inspiration from the melody and penned words in the Koelsch dialect to express their love of the club and region. It is a fabulous participatory experience that lasts from the teams walking out until just before kick-off. It is no wonder that it’s annually voted the best anthem in German football by fans of other clubs.

Locally-born players are popular in the cathedral city and especially those who have stayed true despite relegation. Goalkeeper Timo Horn and winger Christian Clemens have done just that and fittingly, Clemens opened the scoring with a remarkable solo goal four minutes before the break. Sadly, it was cancelled out in the 69th minute when Marcel Risse fell asleep defensively, creating a gap and allowing Sebastian Andersson to level.

Despite disappointment with the result, it was an invigorating evening, helped too by the non stop singing of the Union fans just to my right, who had travelled in large numbers.

I used to maintain that the only clubs I really supported were Aberdeen, my home city team, and KSV Hessen Kassel, a second division German side I followed on early trips to Germany. As a commentator, it is hard to have too many allegiances.

Koeln were a team that always held an attraction, but I must now confess to having crossed the rubicon from admirer to fully-fledged fan.

THE Manchester United soap opera goes on location to the seaside today. Once again, every move by manager Jose Mourinho at the Amex Stadium in Brighton will be fully scrutinised, whether tactics related or otherwise.

Inevitably everything centres on the often strained relationship between the club’s Portuguese manager and star-man Paul Pogba. Perhaps in a strange way, this inner tension is right up Mourinho’s curiously constructed street. In his early days at Chelsea he would seemingly thrive on making himself the story, ostensibly to take pressure off his players. Now, as then, there has to be an ongoing drama of some description.

Pogba, who excelled in the opening win against Leicester, will fancy his chances of powering through again, facing a Brighton side that failed its initial test against Watford, losing 2-0.

Tomorrow night’s confrontation sees Liverpool, buoyed by a 4-0 demolition of West Ham, take on Crystal Palace at Selhurst Park. This surely represents an early weather vane for Jurgen Klopp’s team. On talent, Liverpool should win but there are no guarantees at one of the more intense venues in the league.

Roy Hodgson, former Liverpool manager, guided Palace to a 2-0 win against another of his ex-clubs Fulham at Craven Cottage, in the first assignment. Palace are well drilled and play to their strengths. Get the artistic Wilfried Zaha wired in, the crowd baying and swaying, and it can be problematic even for the best teams in the division.

Liverpool had better be ready.