As the first Scottish Food & Drink September gets under way I am urging people to treat themselves to one of Scotland's most precious shellfish: wild, native oysters.

While it seems counterintuitive to consume a species that’s considered endangered, doing so plays a crucial role in ensuring their survival. This is because the process of harvesting these oysters is intricately linked to their conservation, making them a delicacy that keeps giving back to the environment.

Centuries ago, native oysters were common around Scotland's coastline. Records show that the Firth of Forth was particularly abundant, before being wiped out by overfishing from boats from the south.

Only one native oyster bed of significant size survived the oyster raids, protected by Royal Charter since 1701. Today Loch Ryan's oyster bed, near Stranraer, is home to more than 20 million precious native oysters.

By fishing them, we directly contribute to the health of the oyster population. This is because baby oysters - spats - need exposed shell material to stick to in order to grow.

Every time an oyster is dredged from the seabed, the shell material is turned over, creating an ideal environment for the next generation of oysters to attach and grow. The vast majority, about 95 per cent, are returned to the loch, where they are densely laid together, enhancing their ability to reproduce.

The way this oyster bed is managed directly supports its conservation. Only the larger oysters at eight or 10 years old, which have already had the chance to breed, are harvested and sold. A few from each catch, oysters aged about six years in the prime of their breeding life, will make the journey to oyster bed restoration projects across the UK.

Careful management ensures that the oyster beds can continue to grow and remain healthy, securing their future, and it’s the sale of around 100,000 oysters for eating each year that funds this sustainable management.

The frustrating thing is that with the exception of the oysters enjoyed at the Stranraer Oyster Festival each September, last year every single one of those Scottish wild, native oysters went to London diners.

I'd like to see that change.

The oysters from Loch Ryan offer a true taste of Scotland, with a distinct bite and a nuttier, firmer flesh compared to the softer rock oysters. They are Scottish by nature, each oyster a mouthful of history, of nature's resilience, and of Scotland's rich maritime heritage.

The survival of these oysters is precarious, influenced by factors as subtle as a single degree in temperature, so the cold June we experienced this year in the middle of their breeding season is a reminder of how vulnerable these oysters are.

By choosing to eat Scottish native oysters, you are not just indulging in a luxury food item; you are playing an active role in preserving a species and a way of life that has been part of Scotland's food heritage for centuries. In every bite, you're not only tasting the sea, but you’re contributing to the future health of Scotland's marine environment.

This year's Stranraer Oyster Festival takes place from September 13-15.

Tristan Hugh-Jones is Director of Loch Ryan Oyster Fishery Company

Agenda is a column for outside contributors. Contact: agenda@theherald.co.uk