This article appears as part of the Food Matters newsletter.

As we make our way through the groups of families, young couples and food bloggers I worry that we might have misread the invitation and arrived late at the launch night of Glasgow’s newest pizza restaurant.

It’s not that I doubted there would be plenty of interest in Sano’s second city location.

After all, with a further three units in Ireland proving hugely popular they’ve made quite the name for themselves already with a menu of Neapolitan-style pizzas that won’t break the bank.

It’s just that in any of my past visits to Merchant Square in Glasgow, there’s been nothing close to the size of the crowd that is already buzzing eagerly around tables of fresh bruschetta, Caprese salads and plump green olives.

It’s always seemed a funny little place to me. Steeped in history and undeniably beautiful inside, but somewhat lacking in enough the oomph to tempt you away from the heart of the city centre, just a short walk away.

Perhaps it’s the long-held assumption that Merchant City is an upmarket area, more suited to a celebration meal than an impromptu dinner.

Or it could be that a collection of bars and restaurants under one roof, such as you'll find in Square, can so easily veer towards a food court atmosphere that lacks both character and intimacy.

Either way, it makes it all the more enjoyable to see the place packed out tonight.

Sano has already been open in the space for around three weeks, announcing their expansion in tandem with beloved student bar Vodka Wodka, whose second venue will soon be a neighbour.

In days gone by, I’d likely have been more excited to find Jolly Rancher cocktails in the city centre, but your late twenties really do come at you fast, and the prospect of midweek carb-loading is far more appealing.

Aided by a helpful and bubbly team of staff, we’re lucky enough to nab a table before setting about ordering a duo of pizzas to share alongside a Negroni and Aperol Spritz selected from an extensive drinks list (Told you, very grown-up).

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It’s hard to skirt around the elephant in the room here and avoid the fact that Paesano has long held the crown in Glasgow for perfecting this type of pizza, baked at an intense 450-degree heat until the crust is bubbled and full of flavour.

Then again, you can never have enough of a good thing, a mantra which is fast proving to be true as we tear at the final bites of a ‘Rucola’ with Parma ham, rocket and Parmigiano-Reggiano and its spicier cousin ‘Vesuvius’ with spicy salami, nduja and fresh mozzarella.

By the time we’ve made it to the tiramisu, which rivals any I’ve had in the city so far, I’m convinced that there’s room for two pizza giants in Glasgow and, more so, that Sano will be a hugely valuable asset to its new home.

Following the closures of Steak, Cattle and Roll, Marmalade Skies, Beer Cafe and Bar Square in recent years, wouldn’t it be great to see these new arrivals help Merchant Square return to its full potential?

For more information on Sano, visit www.sano.pizza