Piggs Bruntsfield
117 Bruntsfield Place,
Edinburgh
0131 374 4155

It comes to me during a fat food critic moment pretty early on in this meal that the genius of Piggs surely can’t be the food, or the menu, both appearing surprisingly ho-hum. So it has to be the service.

I mean, this place is mobbed tonight. In case you’ve missed the Edinburgh buzz Piggs here is a mini-chain of tapas bars (two) yet a mini-chain where it’s extremely difficult to get a booking at either (I struggled anyway). And even if you land one of those little perchy tables with bar stools – they’re rationed to two-hour slots.

Tonight, almost from the minute we take a seat, the staff are over like relentless charm bees. “Been here before?”; “This is our daily specials chalk board.” Sure, I get it, the clock’s ticking. Let’s get the show on the road.

But throughout the evening those waiting staff stop, smile, ooze charm, chat, up-sell like they’ve been doing it all their lives, yet still impart such a sensation that they just enjoy their damn jobs that more than once I turn to Joe and mutter: are we missing something here?

Has Brexit secretly been reversed and the Europeans have come back to show us it should be done? Nope. I checked earlier. Everybody in the place is getting carpet-bombed with the same tapas love.

The staff are, frankly, great. As for the food? Well, hands up here. I first looked at the menu and saw the immortal words: “How To Tapas” and not only felt a groan coming on, but thought I was back in the 90s. Or the 80s. Or the 70s.

Hasn’t tapas been about forever. You know: Patatas Bravas, Croquetas, Gambas, Tortilla, Albondigas. They’re all there anyway. Yes there are specials, some wiped off that specials board by the time we sit down at 8pm, and yes we order what’s left of them.

A couple of Pinchos, one Sobrasada, another Morcilla; simple open sandwiches with sausage and black pudding and, while tasting fine, looked a little slapstick perhaps on the plate. Or the slate, they come on.

There’s a Manchego Bomba too, deep fried, erm, cheese triangles. I order the Padron Peppers, fine, blistered and salted but still fairly ho-hum.

Then a Pollo Al Ajillo that comes in a little ceramic dish, pale chicken, pale thin sauce, bit of rosemary not particularly garlicky but otherwise, guess what, fine.

Let’s be clear here, there’s nothing wrong with the food, it just isn’t that different. Or that interesting.

And then I spot the Huevos Rotos Jamon. One of the many things the Spanish do with real flair: fried egg and (skinny) chips and ham.

While I do this I flick open the iPhone and bore Joe with a photo I took of this very dish at Sideria Txots in Figueres. Not that long ago. A mountain of hand-cut, skinny, crispy, delicious proper fresh-not-frozen fries, a fried egg and some fried sausage. Super simple. Super brilliant.

And now Piggs’ version is here. Looks right. Nice bubbled fried egg, sprinkle of paprika on it, okay I took ham instead of sausage, and underneath this some fries. But hang on. These look from frozen. They taste from frozen. And they’re far from skinny too. Boo.

Oh, in case I forget, there is a moment when I weary of the service. It happens like this. Joe and I are still yapping after the sand runs dry on our booking slot, but we have ordered a pretty reasonable Basque Cheesecake at a not so reasonable £8.95 to buy more time.

It does become hard to ignore that staff interactions – aka gentle hints – are going way up. I’m about to mention that the only flaw in the service is table turning when I look round and realise the place is otherwise completely empty.

Ooft. Is that the time? Already? When did everyone else go?

On this column we award a maximum five marks for service, but as far as Piggs go? It deserves more than that. As for the food? Meh. It’s okay.

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Menu: It’s tapas as we all already know it but Piggs is an Edinburgh hit and serves pinchos, manchego bombas and plenty of other favourites. 3/5

Price: They recommend three tapas: ranging from £4.75 for the pan con tomatoe, to £8.75 for Pollo Al Ajillo up to £14 for Pulpo. Egg and chips £7.50. 3/5

Service: In my view, the real reason this place is a winner. Excellent smiley, friendly and professional staff. 5/5

Atmosphere: Yeah, it’s kind of cool, high tables, bar stools, and that priceless buzz from people who want to be here. 5/5

Food: Given the reputation, it's pretty standard tapas fare, competently prepared, the Huevos Rotos Jamon a let down though. 6/10

Total 22/30