On one of the hottest days of the year so far, sunlight bounces off the black marble furnishings at a recently reopened cocktail lounge and restaurant which has given a new lease of life to a landmark Glasgow building.
Standing behind a striking, two-story bar is Alexander Martin, general manager of 1802 at Hutchesons’ Hall, who is proud to be celebrating four weeks since the Merchant City venue welcomed its first customers since the pandemic.
“It’s funny,” he says, “there are so many people who come through our doors every single day because they just want to have a look.
“I don’t blame them.
“There are thousands of people in Glasgow who have dined here over the years but have grown used to seeing Hutchesons’ with the storm doors shut and whitewash on the windows.
“You can see the look on their face when they walk down Ingram Street and realise we’re open again.
“It’s a lovely thing to be a part of and we feel honoured to be here.”
The fascinating story of the Hutchesons’ Hall building stretches back to its construction between the years of 1802 and 1805.
Designed by renowned Glasgow architect David Hamilton, the Ingram Street site served as a hospital thanks to funds left in the wills of brothers George and Thomas Hutcheson.
The following centuries saw the space used as a school, a public library, a bank and even a filming location for Oscar-nominated movie, The Wife, after a £ 1.4 million renovation carried out by restaurateur James Rusk in 2014.
The Hollywood-approved spot continued to operate as Hutchesons City Grill until 2020 when a devastating failure to reopen after lockdown led many to question what the future held in store for the category A -listed building.
There was cause for celebration in April of this year, however, when it was announced that Tabac and the Devil of Brooklyn owner Marco Lazzurri and his team were ready to take their turn as custodians of Hutchesons’.
Having overseen an extensive refurbishment process, Alexander continues: “Almost four weeks in, we’re still learning new lessons every single day.
“Because the place was first built as a hospital, anyone trying to operate it as a kitchen or bar is going to start running into problems purely because it was designed to suit a totally different purpose.
“These gorgeous old Glasgow buildings have big personalities, almost a sentience, of their own and it feels like the place decided for itself when it was ready to reopen.
“I don’t mind being quoted as saying when you’re in here alone at night it can start to feel unnerving.
“But, if there were an angry poltergeist, I think they’d have made themselves known by now.
“Touch wood, we’ve yet to have any major issues like plumbing or electrical faults.”
Any wary spirits are sure to have been appeased by the new guard’s dramatic, yet sympathetic, transformation of the building’s interiors that cleverly enhances original features with moody black walls and glittering metallic accents.
“It’s a listed building that’s maintained by the National Trust, so the rules are we don’t damage it under pain of death,” the general manager says with an earnest smile that suggests he’s only half joking.
“There are certain features around the room like the ceilings, the stained glass windows and the fireplaces that we aren’t allowed to touch.
“What we have been able to do is construct this beautiful, modern bar that draws your eye upwards and really complements its surroundings.
“It’s also extremely functional because it’s been designed by bartenders who know what works.
“We’re trying to marry the old world with the new and you can see that in our food and drinks too.
“It’s all about giving people something they’re familiar with, but then catching them off guard with ingredients or flavours they don’t expect.”
Putting this credo into action, the team is now serving a menu devised by executive chef Andrew Mason which features stand-out dishes of chargrilled monkfish served on the bone with vadouvan, carrot, ginger and nori and miso glazed octopus with watermelon and freekeh.
Over at the bar, look out for classic cocktails ‘brought into the 21st century’ thanks to flourishes like a sweet mango sugar crust on a signature Sidecar that’s been livened up with a hit of Luxardo.
Alexander says: “It would be so easy for us to charge ridiculous prices just because our building is pretty, but we have a really talented team that got into the industry because they want to provide a high level of service and value for money.
“Our kitchen has chefs who have worked in the likes of Dakota or Five March and out front we have excellent mixologists from all over the world.
“It’s a pleasure to be a part of the history of Hutchesons’, but there’s a real sense of responsibility that comes with that.
“If we’re the operators of this beautiful venue, and we’re not able to make it a cornerstone of the city’s nightlife, then what are we doing?
“We’ve got to make it work.”
1802 at Hutchesons’ Hall is open seven days a week at 158 Ingram Street.
Find them online here.
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