This article appears as part of the Food Matters newsletter.
It’s reached that magical Autumnal golden hour, and as day turns to dusk outside, not even the smoked salmon canapes or trays of celebratory bubbles can distract from the telling of a tale full of treachery, a bloody struggle for power and ancient magic.
Our group has gathered at the Knipoch House on the outskirts of Oban for the launch of the new 1635 fine-dining restaurant rather than a lesson in Scottish history, but this pre-dinner storytelling session is quickly revealing that the two go hand in hand.
In fact, in the very room where we’re to be served a seven-course feast from chef Andrew Engledow is a chip in the wall which serves as a grisly reminder of the murder of the Thane of Cawdor, also known as Macbeth, as a feud raged amongst Clan Campbell in the late 1500s.
Said to have provided the inspiration for one of Shakespeare’s most famous plays, here the victim was shot three times after enjoying a meal, with the final bullet forever leaving a mark on the thick stone.
One can only hope that the same fate won’t befall any member of our party as we’re shown to our seats.
Although if this was to be my own final meal, I’d meet my maker with no regrets after eating almost every morsel of chef Engledow’s menu.
From Shetland scallops served with artichoke, black olive, lemon and celery to a fluffy soufflé dessert offering a refreshing take on a traditional cranachan, it’s a powerful showcase of local produce and the team's close relationship with its suppliers.
“1635 is my personal interpretation of how I would enjoy a Scottish kitchen,” our chef for the evening explains.
“The menu reflects Scotland’s natural beauty and culinary tradition, while also embracing modern techniques and creativity.
“By working with the best seasonal ingredients sourced from Argyll and beyond, my vision is to deliver a true taste of Scotland, with every dish offering something unique.”
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We’re lucky enough to be spending the night in this cosy venue on the shores of Loch Feochan, which means a contented post-meal slumber is just a flight of stairs away – although the restaurant is open to both members of the public and hotel guests.
Following a £ 1 million renovation project to preserve its original charm, Knipoch House is now operated by the family-run Sonas Collection group which strives to offer an ‘authentic Highland welcome’.
“Knipoch House has always been a historic gem, and with this new restaurant, we’re beginning a new chapter in its legacy,” Andreas Maszczyk, group general said of the relaunch.
Later, seated once more around the fire for a nightcap, it’s difficult not to ponder over all of the others who have been welcomed through their doors for long nights of good food, wine and company as the wood crackles and pops in the flames.
Far from the fate which befell the unfortunate Thane of Cawdor all those years ago, it’s the perfect ending to an evening of Highland hospitality from the finest of hosts.
For more information on The Knipoch House Hotel and the 1635 restaurant, visit sonascollection.com.
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