Glasgow brewery saves 'iconic' piece of Scottish history

Then there’s the back story of its founder Gareth Young, who spent years studying, and then teaching philosophy at Glasgow University before going ‘all in’ with his home-brewing hobby.

But, it’s the latest addition to the warehouse building, a huge metal structure which splutters and churns behind the bar and seating area, which now truly sets Epochal apart from the rest.

Pictured: Gareth Young, founder of Epochal Barrel Fermented Ales in Glasgow (Image: Colin Mearns)

“The Burton Union, also known as a Union Set, is an old and historically important fermentation system," Young told The Herald.

“It's a Scottish invention but I don't think there has been one in Scotland for at least 100 years, so having one here is a real coup for the city and a homecoming of sorts.

“Watching it work feels like watching a piece of brewing history happen right in front of your eyes.

“This system was so close to vanishing from the world, but I think it’s in safe hands now.

“We’ve saved something culturally important.”

Before the Union Set found its new home at Epochal, the last brewery in the world to utilise the complex fermentation system was Marston’s in Burton-on-Trent.

Last January, when the brewers announced plans to do away with the set-up, Young knew he had to act fast.

“I sent them an email not really thinking that it would go anywhere.

“I mentioned it in passing to a friend of mine, Garrett Oliver from Brooklyn Brewery in New York, and straight away he got in touch with the CEO of the company to say that the Union Set should be given to our brewery in Glasgow.

“A few months of negotiations led to us rescuing two Union Sets, with one going to Thornbridge brewery down South and one coming to me at Epochal.

“It’s maybe the most iconic piece of brewing equipment in the UK, and now we’re finally ready to put it to use.”

Pictured: The Burton Union, also known as a Union Set in its new home (Image: Colin Mearns)

Asked exactly what makes the Union Set such an important part of Scotland’s brewing history, Young continued: “In the 19th century, the UK was the brewing giant of the world.

“I’m biased, but I think Scotland was at the forefront of that, and this is the most sophisticated fermentation system they ever came up with.

“You fill the whole thing full of beer, and yeast pops out of these ‘swan necks’, then that little bit of empty space in that gets filled with a trickle of beer coming back into the casks through a side rod.

“Then that little trickle of beer pushes more yeast out, which pulls more beer in, and creates a cycling motion so that beer is constantly circulating around this whole system which clarifies the beer without needing to filter it.

“It grows fresh yeast for the next batch of beer, which comes from a time where you couldn’t source yeast from a lab.

“At the time this system was invented pale ale was very heavily hopped and really bitter, whereas this creates a flavour that’s distinctively smooth.”

While the Union Set has rightfully become the pride and joy of the Epochal taproom, Young’s fascination with barrel-fermented beer stretches back to his home brewing days, when he had only just started to imagine a specialist microbrewery could be a reality.

“The wooden barrels are fermenters,” he explained.

“There are certain microbes that like to live in those casks.

“So if you think about it, most fermented foods tend to have an extra fermented version.

“Like sourdough bread compared to a loaf you would find at the supermarket, or funky farmhouse cheddar or cultured butter.

“Our beer is like the sourdough bread version of a normal beer.

“There’s a bit more character and funkiness to it.

“It’s difficult to tame the microbes, and they take a lot of monitoring.

Pictured: 'It feels like a homecoming', Mr Young said (Image: Colin Mearns)

“Some breweries can go from grain to glass in just four days and I’m very jealous of that because some of my beers can take up to two years to ferment.

“The flipside of that is that they will then have a really long shelf life of up to five years, so there are pros and cons to it.”

Anyone looking to discover the funkiness of Epochal’s beers, or see the iconic Union Set in action up close, can now visit the newly opened taproom every Friday and Saturday.

After just a few sunny weekends of welcoming thirsty customers and beer geeks from all over the UK, Young said: “We’re the only brewery in the world that makes Scottish style, wood fermented beer.

“It’s great to have that unique selling point, but it can be difficult to explain the story or methods behind it.

“Having people in the taproom and being able to point to the machinery I’m talking about makes that much easier.

“It’s really satisfying to see people enjoying the beer and knowing that the whole production process has taken place here.”

The Epochal Taproom is located at 3A Payne Street, a 10 minute walk from the Cowcaddens Subway Station in Glasgow.

For more information, visit www.epochal.co.uk.