For the hungry laird and his lady, the steaming dish of meaty pie with its rich gravy and extra crunchy decoration on top would have been the perfect fast food.
The main ingredient - pigeons, straight from the doocot at the end of the estate garden - would have travelled only a few hundred yards to the pot.
Their eggs, though small, wouldn’t have gone to waste, and the birds' feet – scraped clean with tiny claws removed – made an ideal fancy topping, peeking through the pastry to create a showstopping dish.
Back at the doocot, meanwhile, even pigeon poo had a use as fertiliser, for tanning leather and gun powder.
Over time, farming and eating habits changed, pigeons were no longer dish of the day and the big estates and grand houses disappeared.
But, as new project aims to highlight, the doocots – some built in lavish style with turrets, arched windows and fancy stonework were more like pigeon palaces and mini castles than bird houses - sometimes survived.
With row upon row of high-rise nesting boxes inside, some with space for upwards of 1,000 birds, the unused doocots were protected thanks to old-fashioned superstitions that suggested anyone daring to destroy them faced imminent ill-fortune and misery.
As a result there are still hundreds dotted around the country, some dating as far back as the 16th century. The feral descendants of the original rock pigeons which once occupied them, meanwhile, are dispersed to villages, towns, cities and gardens around the country.
Athelstaneford Doocot with its distinctive crow-stepped gable, was built in 1583 and restored in 1996
Now a new Scottish Historic Buildings Trust project, Doocots and Dovecots, aims to shed fresh light on the the country's remaining doocots and raise awareness that, without maintenance and restoration, some may be lost forever.
According to the Trust’s Jamie Swanson, the surviving freestanding doocots represent some of the country’s oldest surviving farm buildings and tell a story of life as it once was.
“Many of these remain where the building they were originally built to serve has long disappeared.
“From their introduction in the 16th century to their fall from popularity in the 19th century, most castles, abbeys and mansions would have a doocot in their policies.
“Sadly, many have been lost as they fell into neglect through changed fashions and farming practices.”
Pigeon farming was introduced to Britain by the Normans to provide fresh meat and eggs in the harsh winter months when farm animals and root vegetables were in short supply.
Although early cotes tended to take a ‘beehive’ shape, each one was unique, designed to meet the needs of the owner, constructed from whatever materials were available locally and differing in size and shape.
Most had special features built in to prevent rats scaling the walls, and a ladder so the person gathering the young birds for the table could reach the higher nests and the more succulent young birds, or squabs.
Most castles, abbeys and mansions would have a doocot in their policies, but they were also commonplace in villages up and down the land.
But although the pigeons provided a precious source of food, they also fed on crops and seeds with sometimes devastating consequences. It led to a ruling in 1617 that limited doocots to the better off landowners.
Read more from Sandra Dick:
-
Cancelled and forgotten: the fight to restore hero's reputation
-
Kayaker Nick Ray reveals darkest day: 'I’m finding myself again'
As their wealth grew, some landowners saw the humble doocot as a chance to display their status, with fancy ornamental features echoing the estate’s ‘big house’, elaborate stonework and built to look like mini houses or castles.
Some were particularly ornate: near the Aberdeenshire village of Rosehearty was built around 1800, it was designed to look like a Gothic tower complete with turrets.
It was designed to be seen: positioned on a prime position on the top of a mound, with views of the surrounding countryside.
The mock Gothic Mountholly Doocot in Aberdeenshire (Image: Des Colhoun/www.geograph.org.uk)
Eglinton Dovecote, in the grounds of the old Eglinton Castle estate in Kilwinning – now a country park – is often mistaken by visitors for a mausoleum or chapel, with its two crosses embedded in the stone on either side of an arched doorway.
According to Jamie, by the 18th century demand for a heavily stocked doocot with a constant supply of succulent squab was wearing down.
“Charles “Turnip” Townshend advocated the growing of turnips as a crop for overwintering feed, meaning livestock no longer had to be slaughtered before winter and fresh beef and pork was now on the menu year-round,” says Jamie.
“A few cotes remained in use and a few new examples were built to house birds for sporting purposes.
“The cote was no longer required for food or guano and had no role as a status symbol.”
Timber cotes rotted, and stone structures often lost their roofs. Those that remained in reasonable condition ended up being used for storing farm equipment.
But, adds Jamie: “What is remarkable is there are 948 extant doocots in Scotland according to the Canmore National Record of the Historic Environment database.
“Many of these remain where the building they were originally built to serve has long disappeared.
“New Spynie Doocot served Quarrelwood Castle. The Doocot was converted into a cistern last century. The exterior is in fine condition, nothing remains of the castle.
“Crail Doocot served Crail Priory. The Priory is long gone, the Doocot survives and has recently been renovated and opened as a visitor attraction.
“Leuchars Doocot is extant, although in poor condition, of Leuchars Castle, not a stone remains.”
Read more from Sandra Dick:
- Scotland's best 'coolcation' locations
- How a purple, building eating plant is devouring Glasgow landmarks
- Flower power boost for Led Zep star’s house of the unholy
Among the survivors is the doocot at 18th century Strathleven House, Dumbarton, one of Scotland’s earliest and best-surviving Palladian country houses.
With the house restored by the Trust, there are now hopes that funds can be found so its doocot can also be restored and put to new use.
“We want to raise awareness and hopefully find a new use for it so it’s not just decorative,” says Kirsty McLuskey, the Trust’s property assistant at Strathleven House.
The doocot at Scottish Historic Buildings Trust property, Strathleven House (Image: Scottish Historic Buildings Trust)
“A lot of doocots were purpose-built, didn’t often lend themselves to another use and were left to go to ruin.
“Where they have survived – just about – the house they served is probably gone and the land built over.”
The Doocots and Dovecots project aims to collate a list of remaining doocots, and to highlight those at risk unless they can be restored.
“They were often attractive buildings and status symbols,” adds Kirsty.
“And they tell an interesting story of how people used to live.”
Find out more about the Doocot and Dovecot project here. The Scottish Historic Buildings Trust's Strathleven House - with doocot - will hold an open day on September 14, when activities include the chance to make 3D model doocots.
Why are you making commenting on The Herald only available to subscribers?
It should have been a safe space for informed debate, somewhere for readers to discuss issues around the biggest stories of the day, but all too often the below the line comments on most websites have become bogged down by off-topic discussions and abuse.
heraldscotland.com is tackling this problem by allowing only subscribers to comment.
We are doing this to improve the experience for our loyal readers and we believe it will reduce the ability of trolls and troublemakers, who occasionally find their way onto our site, to abuse our journalists and readers. We also hope it will help the comments section fulfil its promise as a part of Scotland's conversation with itself.
We are lucky at The Herald. We are read by an informed, educated readership who can add their knowledge and insights to our stories.
That is invaluable.
We are making the subscriber-only change to support our valued readers, who tell us they don't want the site cluttered up with irrelevant comments, untruths and abuse.
In the past, the journalist’s job was to collect and distribute information to the audience. Technology means that readers can shape a discussion. We look forward to hearing from you on heraldscotland.com
Comments & Moderation
Readers’ comments: You are personally liable for the content of any comments you upload to this website, so please act responsibly. We do not pre-moderate or monitor readers’ comments appearing on our websites, but we do post-moderate in response to complaints we receive or otherwise when a potential problem comes to our attention. You can make a complaint by using the ‘report this post’ link . We may then apply our discretion under the user terms to amend or delete comments.
Post moderation is undertaken full-time 9am-6pm on weekdays, and on a part-time basis outwith those hours.
Read the rules here