This month a family-run restaurant, the first in Scotland to be recognised as ‘Authentic Italian’ by Accademia della Cucina, celebrates 20 years in the heart of Edinburgh.
From the credit crunch to Brexit and a global pandemic, Carina and Victor Contini have worked through it all at the 19th-century banking hall on George Street where food provenance is honoured above all.
While two decades in the tricky business of hospitality is no mean feat, the story of Contini goes back further still to when past generations left rural Italy for Scotland over 100 years ago.
Carina Contini said: “Our families had been farmers before they arrived here as immigrants and, without any land, they decided to make a living from the other thing they knew and loved – good food.
“They ran classic fish and chip shops with ice cream and an Italian delicatessen.
“With Contini, we wanted to start a new chapter offering fresh, seasonal and authentic cooking.
“It was everything we loved about Italy brought in a beautiful building with interiors modelled on a Florentine Palazzo.
“The early days were a lot of fun and although we’re more mature 20 years on, I hope people still think the same of us now.”
Looking back on her first few years in business, Contini fondly remembers a time at the turn of the century when Scots were just starting to develop a taste for the culinary delicacies of other cultures.
“We had the ‘George Street Irn Bru’ which was the name we gave to an Aperol Spritz because I’m convinced that they share a lot of the same ingredients,” she said.
“Everybody thought it was the strangest drink, but now it’s standard on any cocktail list.
“And I can’t tell you just how many fights we had in the beginning because we didn’t use cream in our carbonara.
“I read through TripAdvisor reviews from even 10 years ago where we’ve been given two stars because of that.
“The world has changed so much over the last two decades and consumers nowadays are far more knowledgeable and discerning which means our connection to our food heritage is stronger than ever.”
Part of this unwavering commitment to authentic cooking means that many of the ingredients and produce at Contini have been sourced directly from trusted suppliers in Italy, some of whom have worked with the family since their grandparent's generations.
Whether it’s the Parmigiano Reggiano that adds irresistible richness to their Contadino Pasta, Sicilian Lemons that sing through their desserts or olive oil for dipping which comes from a brother who lives on the same farm that his father worked on, every effort has been made to create a dining experience that tells a story with every forkful.
A vastly different economic climate to that of when the restaurant was opened in 2004, however, continues to present new challenges.
Contini said: “The new Brexit laws which came into place on April,1 mean that we now have additional charges applied to every single ingredient that we’re bringing in.
“That means three different varieties of tomatoes will have three separate charges.
“It’s crazy and opens the door to a huge amount of what we call ‘food fraud’.
“There’s parmesan or Parma ham on the market with raw ingredients that have never touched Italian soil or met the rules that will guarantee their quality.”
“Then within our fantastic team, we have Italian chefs who know exactly how to handle produce that can only be sourced from Italy.
“Losing that skillset through Brexit is a worry for the future.”
Thankfully, as self-proclaimed ‘Italian Scots’, the Contini’s are equally as dedicated to showcasing the most talented of local producers.
And at Contini, The Scottish Cafe & Restaurant which opened at the Scottish National Gallery in 2009 and the Cannonball House restaurant which followed in 2014, you’ll find all manner of homegrown goodness from the firm’s one-acre Kitchen Garden on the outskirts of Edinburgh.
“Our Kitchen Garden is close to 14 years old now and shows our sustainable values as well as our appreciation for what nature can give us in Scotland.
“That is a really big part of sharing our story, especially at The Scottish Café & Restaurant which serves dishes like Cullen Skink or fish and chips.
“We actually have 40 courgette plants in our house at the moment because it's cosier than the greenhouse.
“From around mid-May, we’ll be able to take two harvests a day into the restaurant which helps to offset our food miles from the produce that’s flown in from Italy.”
As is to be expected, 20 years of running one of Edinburgh’s most beloved restaurants has brought with it visits from all manner of famous faces.
Sean Connery is said to have been spotted there once in his pjs and others including Brian Cox have been known to stop by for an Italian feast.
Still, when asked what she feels has been her biggest achievement, Contini answered: “The standout moment for me has to be getting all three of our restaurants through Covid.
“We took what we were doing into people's homes and pivoted the business so that we could continue to connect with our customers.
“I think that’s what really great restaurants, cafes and pubs do, find a way of deeply understanding people and sharing their stories.
“We’ve been part of their journey of life with weddings, birthdays and sometimes, sadly, funerals.
"That's a very emotional thing and should be celebrated."
And celebrate they will throughout the remainder of their milestone birthday month.
Thankful to have stood the test of time and looking towards the future, Contini said: “Although big chains have more resources, buying power and deeper pockets, consumers are still choosing independent over commercial and I think that’s going to be the saving grace of the industry.
“If restaurants like ours can deliver well and consistently then customers will be willing to pay more because they understand the sense of community that creates.
“We’re 20 years older, but 20 years wiser and that’s because of everyone who has supported us and our brilliant, passionate team who we’re lucky to have.
“Being driven by the next generation helps us to be better today than tomorrow.
“Hopefully that will see us through to at least the next 20 years.”
Contini is located at 103 George Street in Edinburgh.
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