The scent of freshly cut grass and the sea air could be bottled up with the help of organisms found all around us.
Bacteria could be key to improving the ethics and sustainability of the perfume industry thanks to essential oils being developed by researchers from the University of Glasgow.
Experts are developing lab-produced fragrance oils which are free from animal products and do not “rely on depleting natural resources”.
Start-up Scent No. M is leading the fragrance innovation and hopes to forge a new process for creating the key ingredient for perfumes, candles and other scented products.
Research fellow and co-founder of the start- up Dr Hua Wang said they are aiming to find a “new approach to harvesting aromas”.
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Dr Wang added: “Many people don’t realise that even though the fragrances found in perfumes or cleaning and beauty products come from natural sources, they may in fact be derived from animals – such as whales, deer and bees – and plants farmed specifically for the supply chain.
“We saw an opportunity for an alternative which doesn’t rely on depleting natural resources and can instead be developed in a lab.
“It is still a natural product; it is just a new approach to harvesting aromas.”
The idea to turn to the tiny organisms was prompted by conversation about why some people have particularly appealing natural scents – dependent on the reactions of naturally occurring human bacteria.
With the support of the Industrial Biotechnology Innovation Centre (IBioIC), researchers are developing a prototype of the microbial essential oils which could be used widely by the perfume industry.
The bacteria being used are non-genetically modified organisms, claimed to be a first in the industry.
Traditional essential oil are derived from natural or organic sources, but many popular smells are still derived from animals and animal by-products.
Others such as the original source of musk from musk deers or civet have been abandoned in perfumery and replaced with synthetic smells.
The microbic approach to fragrance making could also help replace plant-based smells which need to be specifically harvested or farmed.
Some of the plants can only be grown under certain conditions, while others are subject to seasonal variations that can also impact the sector’s supply chain.
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Speaking on an envisioned benefits of a bacterial approach to perfumery, Dr Wang added: “There could also be additional benefits for people who tend to react badly or find traditionally-fragranced products irritating. Our microbial alternative may be much kinder on the skin.
“The project is still at an early stage, but we are excited to see how the prototype could lead the business to grow, perhaps to include our own fragrance line in the future.”
The team is hoping lab-grown microbes could transform the fragrance industry and ensure more sustainable and resilient processes amid growing efforts from consumers to limit their footprint.
A 2021 report from the British Beauty Council emphasised that the whole beauty industry needed to play its part in “bringing about bold, urgent changes”, including reducing the negative impact of commonly used ingredients.
Scent No. M was awarded £20,000 in funding through the 2022 Converge Challenge supported by the IBioIC.
The biotechnology company is also supporting the process of transforming the idea into a commercial reality.
Liz Fletcher, director of business engagement at IBioIC, added: “This project is a great example of how lab-based biotechnology could be used to modernise and transform an entire supply chain.
“We are seeing more and more exciting opportunities where scientific expertise and research is providing new avenues for manufacturing a wide range of products and materials in Scotland.
“In Scent No. M’s case especially, it could lead to the production of more fragrances under controlled, reliable environments, offering greater reliability and resilience compared to current methods.”
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