Travel: Fine views, good food and pipes that go bump in the night

We are staying at The Ballachulish Hotel; the slightly creaky older matron sister of the newer, clean-cut Scandinavian looking Isles of Glencoe hotel.

The Ballachulish Hotel’s rooms have been refurbished (to Travel Lodge standards) and the dining room is light and airy but it’s as though the builders forgot to refurbish the halls and stairs on the second floor. (In fact the creaky stairs are worth a visit just to hear them – and to be honest, I would imagine the Americans love the idea of a staying in creaky old castle-esque hotel. And so did my teenagers.)

Slightly-tired second floor notwithstanding, the welcome is warm and friendly. The staff are lovely and bend over themselves trying to feed my fussy eaters lunch – and the chef even offers “off the menu” food within minutes.

The package is a hotel stay with two activities linked to the Isles of Glencoe Hotel and we opt for clay pigeon laser shooting and paddle boarding – so although we are in the Ballachulish Hotel, we are allowed to use the facilities at Isles of Glencoe … which also has a small pool.

“Pool.” I used the golden word. I think having a pool for the any age of children is really a deal-maker. And while our visit takes place during one of Scotland’s hottest weekends – I think it’s reached 29C – my kids insist on using the pool two or three times a day.

On day one, we head off to try paddle boarding on Loch Leven (yes there are two in Scotland) and are taken out by instructor Struan, who has a hybrid Scottish accent – he’s lived in Canada for years – and uses lots of words like “wicked” and “awesome” during our lessons, even for me – and I’m trailing behind.

But if you haven’t tried paddle boarding, it really is fun – even if, like me, you don’t like getting your face in the water … it’s a very serene and relaxing experience – and the essence of paddling about on a board on a loch while jumping in and out 100 times is perfect for the kids.

Struan is patient with us – even when the teenagers decide to take him down and capsize him. It doesn’t happen of course, he is too quick. After an hour or so (it’s all very relaxed up here) we head back to Balla for dinner in the Fish, as the restaurant is called.

And boy, were we not expecting what was to come.

Tempurua squid, waygu burgers, langoustine scampi and truffle mac and cheese were just some of the delights we tried. It’s a bustling fine dining experience as well as being relaxed and friendly.

We are feeling at home in the hotel, as the service is attentive, non intrusive and delightfully friendly. We are stuffed to the gunnels – there are no tiny morsels of food at this restaurant. Fish feeds its hungry holiday-makers well.

As we settle down for the night, we are “treated” to a dull, loud droning noise above our room; after investigations of Nancy Drew proportions, we discover it’s the water pipes rumbling (the Grand Old Dame of the Loch’s innards are creaking) and it’s not just the very loud snoring of our next door guest.

So we don’t have the best sleep of our lives, but as expected the staff are on it and tell me they will move us – and our luggage – after we return from our day out.

On day two, we head for a buffet breakfast – and despite my children never eating much in the morning at home, they are heading for seconds of sausage, bacon, eggs, toast, croissants. Full Sottish, continental, light and fresh – it’s all on offer and provides a brilliant start to the day.

This comes after a nip down to the Isles of Glencoe so the kids can have a dip in the pool, which though small, never seems to have more than a couple of swimmers in it at one time.

We have booked laser clay pigeon shooting for our second day with Chris at the Woodlands (www.woodlands.scot) – and none of us have done anything like this before. You get what it says on the tin: you shoot at flying clay discs but with a laser instead of a bullet. My sons take to it like a duck to water, almost always hitting the target. Must be easy, I think. It’s not. My daughter and I struggle to make it to double figures (that’s adding our scores together) while the boys are in the hundreds. But still, it’s good competitive fun and a new skill to add to the boys’ caps. An hour hurtles past.

We head to Fort William – about 20 minutes away by car – and grab some snacks and lunch at Morrisons. The town centre is well served for supermarkets as well as souvenir shops, and there are lots of Americans and Scandinavians around. It feels great to have tourists again after lockdown. I hope it’s not too soon to mention it, but the lack of masks and hand-wiping is welcome. People from all over the world are relaxing after the last couple of years of Covid restrictions. It feels like we are returning to normal.

As the sun is splitting the trees, we decide to check out the Silver Sands of Morar – located around a 50-minute drive from Fort William. Back on the winding roads, you really do need to have your wits about you, particularly as the scenery is among the most stunning I think I’ve seen; the hills roll so close to the roads, you could almost run your fingers through the long grass as you pass.

The beach is a wow – with caster sugar-soft sand and the kind of crystal blue water you’d only expect in the Caribbean. Yet although I do love open water swimming, the water is cold so I decide just to admire from the beach.

Back in our home from home, we delight in our new first-floor room. It’s a bigger more luxurious feeling space, and with no creaky pipes. We love it.

The location of the Ballachulish Hotel is stunning. In fact, the setting is much prettier than that of the Isles of Glencoe. Indeed, the scenery here is so Scottish, so rugged, this could be one of the best hotels in the Highlands.

Part of the Crieff Hydro Family of Hotels group, it’s bound to get there in terms of losing the rougher edges. I’d go back there in a heartbeat.

Travel facts:

Ballachulish Hotel, Near Fort William, Glencoe. PH49 4JY

01764 651842.

ballachulish-hotel.co.uk

Rooms start from £130 per night and include breakfast and use of the facilities.

Winter Sale: Book by the end January and get 25% off.