Winter is an ideal time to visit The Scottish Borders, the low sun burnishes the hills in golden light, roads are quiet and the lonely castles are even more atmospheric.
Recently the South of Scotland earned a place on Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel guide for 2023 as one of the guidebook publishers’ top global destinations to visit. The Scottish Borders forms the eastern section of the region, with Dumfries and Galloway to the west.
Frequently overlooked by both domestic and international travellers who tend to head further north, the region has much to commend it. It’s an area steeped in history with great opportunities for walking, cycling and excellent food and drink too.
For much of the central belt it’s an easy day trip, mini-break or holiday destination. To start your adventure planning, here are some of our favourite places in the region, check out www.scotlandstartshere.com for even more inspiration.
STEP BACK IN TIME AT MELROSE ABBEY
The four majestic Borders abbeys – Melrose, Jedburgh, Kelso and Dryburgh were built in the 12th century, but suffered greatly from their proximity to the English border during periods of war and plunder.
Melrose Abbey was founded in 1136 by King David I, burned down in 1385 by the army of Richard II, partially rebuilt, then further damaged in 1544 during the ‘Rough Wooing’ or Eight Years War.
Amazingly, the ruins of all four abbeys are still standing, although all are currently undergoing high-level masonry inspections so only viewable through fencing at the moment. Melrose is one of the best preserved, it’s a spectacular sight with the Eildon hills rising behind the arched beams. There are well-preserved sculptures to spot on the decorative stone walls, including everyone’s favourite, the bagpipe playing pig.
The adjoining museum has examples of 12th to 15th century pottery and stonework, and family activities like
dressing up and crafts.
LITERARY TREATS AND LOCAL EATS AT THE MAINSTREET TRADING COMPANY
A cultural hub in The Borders, Mainstreet Books defies easy categorisation, with a deli, homeware shop, café, and bookshop. Throughout the year Mainstreet Books hosts author events and cookery demonstrations. Pop in for a warming lunch in the café: the menu changes daily and features hearty soups, sandwiches, a daily hot dish and a delicious selection of cakes.
MARVEL AT THE GREAT TAPESTRY OF SCOTLAND
Now in its permanent home in the textile town of Galashiels, The Great Tapestry of Scotland tells the story of Scotland so far, across 160 intricately embroidered panels. Author Alexander McCall Smith had the idea, and artist Andrew Crummy designed the panels with guidance from historian Alistair Moffat, but it’s the work of a thousand voluntary stitchers across Scotland whose work you’ll marvel at most – the detail is incredible.
Give yourself a good few hours, perhaps pause for lunch in the Stitchers café downstairs then return, the tapestry is extremely absorbing, almost overwhelming.
DISCOVER SCOTT’S ROMANTICISM AT ABBOTSFORD
Abbotsford is the former home of Sir Walter Scott, the 19th century author of the Waverley novels, who brought Scots language to a wider audience and made tartan the height of fashion.
He’s also credited with rediscovering Scotland’s Crown Jewels, hidden since the Jacobite wars, and saving the Scottish banknote during the 1820s banking crisis.
Scott set new fashions in Scots Baronial architecture at Abbotsford, but constructing his dream home nearly ruined Scott, and much of his time spent here was writing furiously to pay off his debtors.
The self-guided audio tour enhances the experience, it’s immersive and entertaining with plenty of interesting details – the alcove built for flirting was a favourite. It also means the gorgeous rooms are free of display boards making it feel like you’ve stepped back in history, perhaps just in time for dinner or a drink in the library.
Visiting the house is ticketed, but it’s free to walk in the gardens. Sir Walter Scott was an avid tree planter and the diverse habitats and beautiful mixed woodland at Abbotsford are an important part of his legacy.
WALK BY THE RIVER TWEED IN PEEBLES
The river Tweed flows through the pretty town of Peebles and walking along the riverbank is a relaxing way to spend an afternoon. Follow the riverside path to medieval Neidpath Castle, in summer the pools below are a popular swimming spot but it’s a gorgeous location any time of year. Warm up at Cocoa Black Chocolate Shop, run by master chocolatier Ruth Hinks.
For a longer walk try The John Buchan Way, named after the author most famous for The Thirty Nine Steps, which starts at Bank House in Peebles.
The 13-mile route winds through beautiful countryside and passes Cademuir Hill and Stobo Kirk, ending at the village of Broughton where you can catch a bus back to the start.
In Broughton you can visit The John Buchan Centre which is home to an interesting collection of memorabilia about John Buchan’s life and career.
GET ACTIVE AT GLENTRESS
The 7stanes are seven mountain biking centres spanning the south of Scotland and offering some of the most exciting cycling in the UK. Glentress is the 7stanes flagship trail centre, and the bike shop here can get you kitted out to try the trails for yourself, then warm up after in the Glentress Peel café.
The forest also offers brilliant walking and running trails for all ability levels. For an exhilarating experience, get ready to climb and take on the tree-top course at Go Ape. The final zip wire takes you above the trees and across the river which is sure to get the adrenaline pumping.
WINDSWEPT WALKS AT ST. ABB’S AND ST. ABB’S HEAD NATIONAL NATURE RESERVE
Standing in for ‘New Asgard’ in the Marvel film Avengers: Endgame, St. Abbs has increased in popularity since its big screen debut. St. Abbs is a pretty fishing village surrounded by rugged cliffs. It’s named after Æbbe, a 7th-century Northumbrian princess who survived a shipwreck here and then founded a nunnery. St. Abb’s Head offers one of the best cliff top walks in Scotland, with seabirds swooping and diving and waves crashing below. Walk out to the lighthouse or inland to Mire Loch.
To learn more about the wildlife and geology visit the National Trust visitor centre.
EAT AND SHOP AT KELSO FARMERS’ MARKET
In the heart of agricultural farmland, market town Kelso is a real hub for food and drink and independent businesses.
On the fourth Saturday of the month the town square fills with local traders selling high-quality local produce.
Outwith market days Kelso remains a brilliant place to shop locally, with butchers, fishmongers, grocers and bakeries, and plenty of lively independent cafés and delis packed with tempting treats.
Just outside Kelso visit Smailholm Tower. The four-storey tower is a 15th-century laird’s residence with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
On a clear day you can see as far as Bamburgh Castle over the border in Northumberland (open April to September).
- Abbotsford www.scottsabbotsford.com
- The Mainstreet Trading Company www.mainstreetbooks.co.uk 23 Main St, St Boswells, Melrose TD6 0AT
- The Great Tapestry of Scotland, 14-20 High St, Galashiels TD1 1SD www.greattapestryofscotland.com
- Glentress www.forestryandland.gov.scot/visit/forest-parks/tweed-valley-forest-park/glentress
- St Abb’s Head www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/st-abbs-head
- Melrose Abbey Abbey Street, Melrose, Roxburgh,TD6 9LG www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/melrose-abbey/hshire
- Kelso www.visitkelso.com/event/kelso-farmers-market-28
- Smailholm www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/smailholm-tower
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