The Old Course Hotel: Our stay encapsulates the magic of St Andrews

St Andrews means different things to different people. For me, memories of family holidays can still be replayed with ease, while more recent times are cherished because of the newfound love that will be enshrined when my fiancé Lyndsay and I are married in the town next summer alongside our daughter Ruby, who is as smitten with the place as we are, and our upcoming arrival – who will make the first of many trips there unaware of what makes St Andrews so special.

It is a town that is never easy to say goodbye to. That view from the Old Course Hotel, one which stretches across the Links and West Sands and onto a horizon that can be stared at for what feels like an eternity, was taken in one final time before we headed for home at the end of a weekend that encapsulated St Andrews at its most magical. Those landmarks had been seen from a different outlook three days previously. A tour of the luxurious living spaces of Hamilton Grand did not disappoint, but it was the time spent on the roof that truly took the breath away as the doors opened and the panoramic perspective came into view.

The building, which comprises of 26 luxury residences and apartments, has been the backdrop to some of the most iconic moments in golf, including Cameron Smith’s crowning at the 150th Open Championship in July. To be on the inside looking out, especially through the porthole windows on the top floor, was perhaps a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity and the final apartment up for sale, finished to the immaculate standard that is expected from a Kohler property, is worth the near £3million price tag for the setting alone.

The Old Course Hotel is an iconic part of the landscape in its own right. It undoubtedly benefits from its prime location, but it stands as one of the finest five-star experiences in the world and a series of multi-million pound renovations – in every area from suites to restaurants, spa facilities to conference spaces – has only raised the bar once again to make for a truly exceptional venue. The Hall of Champions now boasts an increased capacity of 450 and is the pinnacle of the event arenas. The boardroom and ballroom have their own sense of class and charm, while the conservatory is the perfect backdrop for a wedding.

An additional 31 guest rooms were added during the extensive works last year, taking the total to 175, which includes 35 suites. The equilibrium between old and new has been perfectly struck and there is a warming charm about the Old Course Hotel that starts with a friendly greeting at the door and permeates throughout your stay, be it long or short.

Whatever the duration, time should be put aside to spend in the Kohler Waters Spa and Fitness Centre. It was the most relaxing end to our Old Course experience, with the pregnancy massage session for Lyndsay a much-appreciated addition to the itinerary.

Set across 2,300 square meters, it features 13 treatment rooms as well as a hydrotherapy pool, sauna and steam room and the gym is the perfect set-up for fitness fanatics or those looking to increase their step count without swinging a club.

The hotel and the course are naturally intertwined but there is no sense of golf being an overbearing presence. The nods to the greatest of the game – from the black-and-white murals of Old Tom Morris to the board depicting the champion golfers of the year – are at every turn, but even those with no affinity for golf can appreciate a venue that epitomises the history of the town itself.

One member of our party was not up to speed with the rules and etiquette of the game and irked a golfer who had found the tarmac on the Road Hole. The request to put his ball back where she found it was light-hearted given the circumstances and that mistake was not made again by a first-time visitor to St Andrews.

The plush penthouse on the fourth floor, accessible via a private staircase and lift, is equipped with the finest Kohler accessories and a free-standing bath vies with a central fireplace to be crowned the centrepiece of a quite extraordinary space. The penthouse is the pinnacle, but every level of room allows guests to relax in the opulence of their environment.

At the opposite end of the building, the Swilcan Loft is an equally impressive addition to the Old Course Hotel. The wood panelling and darker colour palette of the Road Hole Restaurant is offset by a space that is contemporary, one which provides a stunning, unrivalled setting for food and drinks.

The cosy spaces of Hams Hame, situated within Hamilton Grand, and the famous Jigger Inn – the old stationmaster’s lodge that sits on the path that was the railway line until the late 1960s – had helped to warm the heart and whet the appetite before dinner in the Road Hole on the first night. As in the Loft the following evening, the food matched the surroundings and both meals were exquisite as three courses were accompanied by convivial conversation and recollections from hectic yet thoroughly enjoyable days out and about.

The three AA rosette-awarded Road Hole offers the best of Scottish cuisine. A dinner there will never disappoint as every sense is delighted, and it could be argued that it is only topped by the breakfast offering that is the perfect start to a day, whether you are heading out onto the course or into the town.

On Sunday morning, a walking guide offered visitors an insight into the history of St Andrews. The relationship between the locals and the students – given the moniker of “the town and the gown” – is part of the charm of the place and the stresses and pressures of life are lifted as you stroll down cobbled streets and peer through the windows of the myriad of shops, cafes and restaurants that give St Andrews its vibe.

The stories of how it got its name were central to the early stages of our tour. Just hours before, St Andrews had celebrated the patron saint in a manner that was typically Scottish, one which would have made local hearts beat with pride and the minds of visitors become overawed by the sights and sounds.

After ceilidh dancing on the streets, a torch procession meandered down towards the West Sands as the sound of bagpipes filled the air. It was poetic, perhaps, that the drizzle stopped before the fireworks started and a mesmerising display – the highlight of which saw a Saltire formed and reflect off the glistening beach below – summed up the party spirit of Scotland.

A statue of Andrew the Apostle stands just off The Scores and a short walk from the Castle and Cathedral, the ruins of which were the backdrop for wincing faces when the gruesome tales of battles and deaths from centuries ago were relayed to incomers who had no inkling of Scotland’s past and the town’s part in the Reformation.

The steps into St Salvator’s Quadrangle at the University are like walking back through the centuries. The notes of choir singers started to fill the air to our left and the angelic sounds became louder as the doors opened and the full majesty of the Chapel presented itself.

Lunch in The Adamson, undoubtedly one of the finest restaurants in the town and a must-visit for any trip, preceded a gin experience at Kingsbarns. Like the time spent sampling the array of whiskies from the Road Hole Bar the previous day, it was an informative experience even for those who felt the burn on the back of their throats and the knowledge of and passion for the respective tipples was something to behold.

The day had started with nine holes at The Dukes – the only heathland course at the Home of Golf – and time on the practice ground. The views out over St Andrews from the impressive clubhouse are worth the short journey out of town alone, while the Peter Thomson-designed course itself provides a stern test for all levels of golfers. In that regard, it is like St Andrews itself. There is something for everyone, a restaurant to suit all tastes or an activity to soothe or inspire in a setting that is Scottish at heart but is open to the world.

It is the perfect place, our favourite place. We will be back again soon.

Travel facts:

Christmas packages are available. A two-night stay costs £1,340 per room based on two adults sharing an Eden Room and includes Christmas Eve dinner, Christmas Day lunch and dinner and breakfast both days, and entry to the Spa and Fitness centre. Similar options for Hogamany stays. Overnight packages are available from £325 per room and include dinner and breakfast.

oldcoursehotel.co.uk