Toravaig House Hotel: Why you should head to the Garden of Skye

The Garden of Skye, or the Sleat peninsula, is one of the locations which may not get the fanfare it deserves – but that is not necessarily a bad thing.

Heading to the island with no car, we knew many places would be out of reach but quickly learned that there are few better places to be stranded than the very south of Skye.

It is, of course, not the easiest time to go car-less in Scotland – but with a little determination rail strikes can be worked around.

After RMT strike action fell on our intended travel date, we set off to Mallaig a day early. While a car might help you avoid such hassle, no roads will grant quite the view that is gifted by the West Highland Line.

Despite a dreich forecast, as we boarded the ferry as foot passengers the next day the sun accompanied us as we continued our long journey to Skye.

We were staying at the Toravaig House Hotel, an intimate boutique hotel nestled among the hills in the Sleat peninsula. It’s one of three independent hotels run by award-winning hotelier Anne Gracie Gunn and her family and makes up part of the Sonas Hotel Collection.

Toravaig

As we arrive in Armadale, the hotel’s driver, Peter, awaits us to take us to along the road and gives us our first taste of the Skye hospitality which marked our trip.

With just nine-bedrooms, the Toravaig House is a dreamy and snug location and it is easy to see why it has on multiple occasions been bestowed the title of “Romantic Hotel of the Year” at the Scottish Hotel Awards.

Toravaig House Hotel

And if that is not intimate enough for you, and you’re willing to go all out, the hotel has recently began offering the option of exclusive use, so you can travel with up to 18 people and experience it entirely to yourself – including your own personal chef. The romantic location is even able to host small weddings.

I, however, was content to enjoy just the company of my partner and we soon embarked on our first exploration of the ‘Garden of Skye’.

The perk of staying in the less hyped part of the island meant that we could enjoy long walks with only the company of the sheep and the odd cow. There is no place quite like the Scottish islands for enjoying the tranquillity of nature. Everything is slower and calmer, letting you discover every hidden rapid or stream.

Of course, a part of that slower pace of living was forced upon us due to our lack of a car but let’s not dwell on what we do not have.

After a walk through the heather covered hills to a pub on the rocky shore, we head back to our temporary abode when the forecast full day of rain hits all within an hour.

But we are not stuck in the rain long before a Skye resident pulls up beside us and drives us the rest of the way.

The welcoming and warm nature of the island community shined through, and helped us get from A to B, throughout the trip.

After returning to Toravaig, we get to experience the fine-dining in the restaurant of its sister-hotel the Duisdale.

The food offers interesting twists on Scottish meals with the local and fresh ingredients used in many imaginative ways. For starters, we had crab, which came with kohlrabi and apple, and scallops cooked to perfection.

For mains I had the crispy sea bass topped with a surprising, yet delightful, mix of prawns and hazelnuts; while my partner had the lamb which he described as sensational. But it was the haggis bon bons that kept him talking about the meal the next day.

Dessert had us both surprised. Neither of us have a sweet tooth yet the homemade sorbet and soft cakes awed us. I enjoyed the raspberry dessert which came with a tahini caramel and sesame twirl, while my partner had the fresh strawberry sorbet and financier cake.

The next day, we experienced the talent of the chef at the Toravaig at breakfast, but our highlight was the selection of miniature pain au chocolate and croissants served ahead of your main order.

We then headed to Broadford, the second-largest town on the island albeit still tiny, where we enjoyed chatting away to the shopkeepers at a tiny antique store and Skye gift shop.

Upon their recommendations, we avoided hiking Beinn na Caillich, which we were informed was likely to be too soggy after the previous day’s rain, and instead walked along the beach past the Irishman’s Point.

There we enjoyed the beach to ourselves, watching Northern Gannets dive into the water, and even a merlin or two. The word “peaceful” doesn’t go quite far enough.

After a day in the unexpected sun, we were once again given a lift by a kind stranger before returning to the Duisdale for dinner.

This time we try the ‘crispy hen egg’ for a starter which turns out to be a delightful twist on a scotch egg accompanied by an ‘onion tea’ packed with flavour.

The surprise of the second night was without a doubt the cod and its flavourful white sauce, but the halibut wrapped in nori was not far off. The Scottish cheese board and a whisky each rounded off the trip.

As we boarded the ferry next day, we did not realise that Skye was not finished showing off its magic. Little auks, bottlenose dolphins, guillemots, manx shearwaters and a horde of gannets followed us closely to the mainland. A perfect goodbye from a wonderful place.

Toravaig House Hotel, Manse Of Sleat, Isle of Skye IV44 8RE. For more information, visit skyehotel.co.uk or call 01470 373737. Rooms starts from £119 .