CRAWICK Multiverse may not contain Scotland’s oldest stone circles and earthworks – in fact they are probably among the youngest at less than a decade old – but the magic and the drama of this landscape, created by revered land artist Charles Jencks, makes it an ideal spot to celebrate the summer solstice, 21st century style.
The fact that the site, in Dumfries and Galloway, is hosting a morning solstice event, starting at 4am, just in time for that 4.29 sunrise, as well as morning activities and entertainment from 8.30am to 12.30pm, adds to its allure as one of Scotland’s key destinations to see in the longest day, which, at Crawick, is 17 hours 20 minutes of light, but in the far north of Lerwick, stretches to nearly 19 hours.
Unlike Stonehenge in England or the Neolithic stone circles of Scotland, Crawick has no long, enigmatic history. Rather, this ambitious representation of the multiverse and universe, of galaxies Andromeda and the Milky Way, as well as the Sun, the “navel” of the earth, comet collisons and galactic superclusters, in earth and stone, is made on what was considered a scar on the landscape – an abandoned open-cast coal mine. Jencks made a pig’s ear into a silk purse, healed a landscape with art.
READ MORE: Simmer Dim: the magic of midsummer twilight on Unst
The American artist and architectural historian, who had already made his Garden of Cosmic Speculation, was commissioned by the Duke of Buccleuch, who owns the land, to transform the site. Among the nine landforms are two mountains which rise up as a pair, Andromeda and the Milky Way. It has been said these two will eventually collide, in about 4 billion years. But we don’t have to worry about all that now.
The solstice moment itself is 10.13am, the moment when the sun reaches its greatest height in 2022 in the northern hemisphere, the result of the way the Earth’s axis tilts as it travels around our star, altering the amount of light that falls on parts of the world. That tilt is the source of our seasons and solstice moment symbolises the beginning of astronomical summer here, though for many it may feel as if we are already well into midsummer.
Of course, those seeking a solstice experience can go elsewhere, find somewhere closer to home, a beach, a hill, a circle of stones, a park with a view – but wherever you go, take that sense of those heavenly bodies, the cosmic, with you. The solstice is a reminder, of the continuity of things, and our own place as tiny bodies in a vast universe.
And where else to watch the sun rise or set?
1. Unst, the Shetland Islands
The further north you go, the longer the light lingers, so it makes sense that when we think of midsummer, we think of Shetland, and of Unst, the northernmost inhabited part of the British Isles. There is even a special word for the light at that time of year: simmer dim. This beautiful Shetland term describes not a place, but a time of year, or more precisely a phenomenon, the twilight that hangs in the sky through the midsummer nights, even as the sun has set just below the horizon.
2. Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh
Climb the capital's mini-mountain at first light to catch a glimpse of the sunrise coming up over the North Sea and catching the Edinburgh and East Lothian coastline as it rises. There's something almost mystical about this beast of an extinct volcano sitting right in the middle of the city. The most popular spot in Edinburgh for a solstice sunset too.
3. Forth Bridge, Fife
Take in the sunrise or sunset whilst strolling across the old Forth Road Bridge, with the full drama of the rail and the Queensferry Crossing on either side.
4. Lyle Hill, Greenock
Just doon the watter for Glaswegians, is the perfect viewpoint for a sunset at the Cross of Lorraine on Lyle Hill in Greenock. Views across to Kilcreggan, Helensburgh and Dunoon as well as Gourock bay.
5. Conic hill, Stirlingshire
On the West Highland Way, and with stunning views over Loch Lomond, this is just about the right size of hill to climb if you want your sunrise whilst hiking a mountain - start at first light, and be aware there are steep sections and the entire walk takes 2-3 hours.
6. Calanais, Lewis
These standing stones are often a sunrise destination for solstice lovers. Many have heard the legend the 'shining one' who according to local legend walks up the avenue on the midsummer dawn.
7. Cathkin Braes, Glasgow
Head to the top of Queen Mary's Seat and watch the sun going down with the entire city of Glasgow sprawled before you.
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