Location: Scottish Borders
Grade: Easy walk on good paths
and cyclepath
Distance: 4 miles/6.5km
Time: 2-3 hours
It is clear almost from the start of this walk that the town of Innerleithen in the Tweed Valley has close links to St Ronan. But which
St Ronan? Study of Celtic lore reveals at least a dozen holy men carrying that name.
Which, if any, of them actually came here and founded a church some time around the 8th century is lost to us. Perhaps it does not matter.
The saint’s name is most closely associated nowadays with the Wells. This is at least partly due to Sir Walter Scott. In 1823, he published a novel called St Ronan’s Well, placing the efficacious waters here.
Local people were quick to seize this marketing opportunity. A handsome pavilion was built for those coming to ‘take the waters’ and after analysis, a Dr Fyfe made grand claims for the springs, which were said to be a cure for just about everything from scurvy to infertility.
By the end of the 19th century the water from St Ronan’s Wells was being bottled and despatched far and wide, even gaining the Royal Warrant.
From the 1920s onwards the business diminished but the waters can still be tasted in the pavilion, now an excellent visitor centre wih a great deal of fascinating material.
You can ponder all this as you walk the lovely path to Caerlees, high above the Tweed (after first passing through St Ronan’s Wood, now owned by the Woodland Trust).
The path follows the edge of a strip of fine mature woodland including some superb old beeches before reaching a T-junction.
Up to the right here is Glenormiston House, the family home of the publisher William Chambers. The company he set up in Edinburgh with his brother Robert became very successful, particularly in the field of reference works.
He became Lord Provost of Edinburgh in 1865 and oversaw many improvement schemes, including the creation of the street which bears his name and which today holds the National Museum of Scotland. Opposite the museum is a statue of Chambers by John Rhind.
Walk down the track and cross the A72. Please take great care here as this is a busy road carrying fast-moving traffic. The track opposite allows you to escape to the peace of the Tweed, and the cycleway which is followed back to Innerleithen. It is lined in spring and summer with a beautiful array of wild flowers.
Where you join the cycleway (an old railway line) there was once a small station called Glenormiston Halt. This was pretty much a private stop for William Chambers, put here as a quid pro quo for him allowing the railway to cross his land.
The old line leads easily back into Innerleithen, passing the site of its station. There is time for a wander along the High Street which holds interesting shops, several cafes and also Smail’s Printing Works, a National Trust for Scotland property where you can print your own material using original 19th century equipment.
Whichever St Ronan did found a church here, he certainly picked a beautiful spot, as I am sure you will agree after completing this lovely short walk.
ROGER SMITH
ROUTE PLANNER
Map: OS 1:50,000 Landranger sheet 73 (Peebles, Galashiels & Selkirk) or Walks around Innerleithen and Walkerburn leaflet available locally.
Distance: 4 miles/6.5km
Approx Time: 2-3 hours
Start/Finish: Car park, Leithen Road, Innerleithen (GR: NT333379)
Transport: Regular bus services to Innerleithen from Edinburgh via Peebles (www.travelinescotland.com)
Information: Peebles TIC, 01721 723159.
Route: Walk up Leithen Road and TL on Strand. Go L then R on Wells Brae up to St Ronan’s Well. Just L of Well go up steps into wood. Go R for a short distance then back L, climbing steadily on a path with a stone dyke on L. Briefly join access road to mast. Below mast, go through kissing gate and TR on clear path beside dyke. Follow this path for 2km. At junction TL on broad track down to A72 road. Cross road with great care. Take track opposite leading down to river. TL on cyclepath, back to Innerleithen. At road TL up to High St. TR and walk along High St, TL on Leithen Road back to car park.
We are running our favourite previously published walks due to a backlog caused by Covid
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