CHAMPAGNE. It’s a French thing. Right? Well, not according to Vladimir Putin. The Russian President has declared that only sparkling wine produced by local producers can now be called “champagne” in Russia.

How is that possible? Isn’t champagne made in the Champagne region of France? The clue’s in the name, surely?

So the French have always insisted. And the French appellation d’origine controlee is recognised internationally and protected in more than 120 countries.

But Putin has passed legislation in Russia that all non-Russian producers, including those in the French Champagne region, have to mark their products in Russia with the words “sparkling wine” on every bottle.

The law means that French appellations are not recognised and only locally produced “shampanskoye” can use the term.

How have the French champagne producers reacted?

Initially they weren’t impressed. The French champagne producers’ committee said it was “scandalised” by Putin’s move and demanded “this unacceptable law be modified”.

Last weekend Moet Hennessy, along with other champagne producers, even threatened to suspend exports to Russia. But now cooler heads have prevailed, and Moet has confirmed it would resume deliveries.

“The Moet Hennessey champagne houses have always respected the place in place wherever they operate,” the company has said.

How much champagne does Russia import anyway?

Russia currently imports somewhere in the region of 50 million litres of sparkling wine every year. Only 13 per cent of that is French champagne, and Moet Hennessy is responsible for 2% of those imports.

And where does Russian “champagne” come from?

It is mostly made in southern regions of Russia, including Krasnodar and Rostov.

Is it any good?

It sells for £2.70 a bottle, so it’s definitely cheap.

What might be behind this?

The French newspaper Le Monde has suggested the Russian President is helping out his close friend Yuri Kovalchuk, owner of the Novy Svet and Massandra wineries in Crimea.

What might this mean for other brands and products?

Well, one opposition politician, Gennady Gudkov, has suggested that Russia could now also ban Scottish companies from selling “whisky” in Russia.

And how important is the Russian market for Scotch?

Russia is Scotch Whisky’s 30th largest export market by value, worth £19,511,890 last year, and 14th by volume, according to figures from the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA).

What can we do if Putin comes for our whisky?

The SWA has told The Herald that it will step up to the plate if required. “The SWA consistently takes action around the world to protect the geographical indication of Scotch Whisky, which is vital for Scotland’s national drink to continue to thrive in its global markets,”

“To date we have obtained positive results in legal proceedings taken against those in Russia who seek to take advantage of the quality reputation of Scotch Whisky.

“Our experience is that the authorities in the country recognise that Scotch Whisky means whisky produced only in Scotland. We also have a pending registration application with a view to strengthening our protection in what is an important export market.”