I USED to live by this motto: ‘Beware Greeks or anyone else for that matter bearing Greek wines’. But crikey, times have changed, especially for the reds. True, they still produce those crimes against humanity retsina and mavroudaphne of Patras but even France, the home of the legendary first growth clarets, produces a few dogs.

The Greek wine industry is actually one of the oldest in the world dating back thousands of years and their wines were highly prized by the Roman Empire. In truth, the quality wines never really went away, they were just eclipsed in sales by the rubbish. Bargain-hunting Brits seeking to relive their holidays would fill their cases with retsina, seemingly oblivious to the fact that virtually anything chilled can seem refreshing under the blistering Greek sun but not quite so good back home in Greenock.

Anyway, the short story is that you should try them this summer, especially the reds, which are superb with fresh vibrant fruit, spice and a complexity that often compares to the best wines of the Rhone. The selection is getting better every year and one of the new kids on the block is actually a friend of mine who started Corelli wines three years ago. To be honest, I thought the topping had slid off his pizza but then we tried a few together one day and I was smitten (by the wines, not Alex). Now he supplies many Michelin restaurants, such is the appeal of the top end Greek wines.

Estate Papaioannou Old Vines Organic Red

Produced with 100% Agiorgitiko and aged for 18 months in a combination of American and French oak this is so, so appealing. Ripe cherry notes on the nose with warm, spicy fruits on the palate and a hint of vanilla on the finish.

Corelliwines.com £26

Kompsos Liatiko, Karavitakis

Very light in colour but, wow, is the colour deceptive. There's a basket load of fruit and spices in this one. The Wine Society guru describes it as pinot noir on steroids and I don't think I can improve on that.

thewinesociety.com £9.95