SCOTLAND’S top chefs have expressed disappointment that no Scots restaurants have been awarded new Michelin stars.
The new edition of the Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland 2017 handed out eight new stars, but none were in Scotland.
Scotland retains 12 single Michelin starred restaurants with Restaurant Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles Hotel in Perthshire remaining the only one to have two stars.
Sangster’s in Elie, the 13th to have a star, has now closed, while Glasgow remains star-less for the 13th year running.
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London received eight new stars at a glitzy live event in the capital.
But Paul Leonard, head chef of The Isle of Eriskay, was the only Scottish restaurant to be included in the guide’s new award for restaurants, which have retained one Michelin Star with a change of head chef.
The 32-year-old, who took over from Ross Stovold a year ago, declared himself “chuffed to bits”.
He said: “It’s been tough, but this makes it all worthwhile.”
Tom Kitchin’s Scran & Scallie gained a Bib Gourmand, awarded for “quality and value”, taking Edinburgh one ahead of Glasgow, which retained its three Bibs, along with two in the Borders and one in Argyll and Bute.
But three high-profile restaurants which lost stars last year – Castle Terrace in Edinburgh, Knockinaam Lodge in Portpatrick and Three Chimneys on Skye – have failed to regain them.
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Shirley Spear, owner of the Three Chimneys and chair of the Scottish Food Commission, said: “Some people are wondering if the Michelin inspectors have actually been in Scotland over the last year.
“Our new head chef Scott Davies didn’t expect to gain a Michelin star this year and we’re not particularly surprised at the result here at the Three Chimneys. But I am annoyed that Scotland appears to be so dull in the eyes of the international culinary world.”
Tom Kitchin, chef-patron of the single-starred The Kitchin in Leith whose sister restaurant Castle Terrace lost its star last year, said: “Obviously I’m delighted to get a Bib for Scran & Scallie.
“But I’m surprised there has been no movement across the country and I think a lot of people will be disappointed too. There are restaurants in Scotland pushing for three stars, some pushing for two. But who are we to question the Michelin inspectors? We only work here day in, day out.”
Andrew Fairlie, chef-patron of Scotland’s only two-star restaurant, said: “I am surprised at this outcome. I did expect more upward movement in Scotland. There are a lot of disappointed people in the room today, some expecting three stars, some two.
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“I’ve had some amazing meals in Glasgow and I was really surprised that it wasn’t included in the guide.”
Rebecca Burr, editor of the Michelin Guide, said: “I wouldn’t go so far as to say the standard is going down in Scotland.
“We’re happy with the collection we have and I prefer to celebrate those restaurants that have managed to retain their accolades. I do think there’s room for a great deal of business in Glasgow, and there should be more.”
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