* In this week's listing from his bestselling compendium, SCOTLAND THE

BEST! 1994, Peter Irvine, locates super suppers at the best fish and

chip shops.

THE ASHVALE, ABERDEEN: 46 Great Western Road, near Union Street. Set

up in 1985, this take-away and restaurant complex (seats 300) is first

class. Open seven days, 12-1am; restaurant: 12-11pm Sunday-Thursday;

until midnight Friday/Saturday.

THE NEW DOLPHIN: Chapel Street, Aberdeen. Few tables, superb

take-away. 11.45am-1/2am.

VALENTE'S, KIRKCALDY: 73 Overton Road. Ask directions to this

excellent chippy, worth the queue. Closed Wednesday. Otherwise open

until 11pm.

THE UNIQUE, GLASGOW: 223 Allison Street. Not exactly central, but this

is where you'll find the best fish and chips in town. There's a cafe and

the nostalgic delight of the spam fritter. Vegetable oil used. Open

8.15am-1.15pm, 3.45-9pm.

HARRY RAMSDEN'S, GLASGOW and EDINBURGH: Paisley Road West, and

Newhaven Road. Both are best reached by car. Big, bright, tacky-decor

restaurant and take-away with constant queue due to fresh fry policy.

Both open seven days until 11pm. But in Edinburgh locals prefer: YE OLDE

PEACOCK INN across the road which has been serving up fresh Scottish

fish for years. Lunch/high tea until 9pm. Sit-in only.

L'ALBA D'ORO, EDINBURGH: Henderson Row, near corner with Dundas

Street. Large selection of deep-fried goodies including many vegetarian

savouries. Inexpensive proper pasta and real pizzas. Until midnight, 1am

weekends.

THE RAPIDO: 77 Broughton St, is also very popular with late-night

ravers. Until 2am and 3am. Friday/Saturday.

THE DEEP SEA, EDINBURGH: Leith Walk opposite the Playhouse. One of the

best fish suppers you'll ever feed a hangover with. Until 2am and 4.30

Friday/Saturday.

DEEP SEA, DUNDEE: 81 Nethergate. Excellent fish 'n' chips here since

1939. Cafe is a classic. Vegetable oil. Monday-Saturday, 11.30am-8.15pm.

LUIGI'S, DUNDEE: 17 Strathmartine Road near Dundee Law Chip shop with

newer pizza shop next door, both with dinettes. Lard used. 10am-8pm (Fri

until 10pm). Closed Sunday.

PEPPO'S, ARBROATH: 51 Ladybridge Street next to the Harbour. Fresh

fish and chips to match in dripping. Sunday-Thursday 4-11pm, Friday

4-9pm and, amazingly, closed on Saturday.

HOLDGATES, PERTH: 146 South Street. Owned by the same family (the

Hills) from time immemorial, a trad chip shop serving fish teas. Lard

used and best haddock from Aberdeen. Noon-8.30pm. Closed Sunday.

THE ANSTRUTHER FISH BAR: On the front, just look for the queue. Lard

used. Seven days until 11pm.

WEST END, ROTHESAY: 1 Gallowgate. One of the best things about

Rothesay and winner of the Seafish Best Fish 'n' Chip-shop award for

1992. Only haddock, but a wide range of other fries and fresh pizza.

Only place we found that uses groundnut oil, the best though not the

cheapest. Summer: noon-midnight (Sun 4-11pm), winter noon-2pm and

4-midnight. Cafe in summer only until 8pm.

BRUNO'S, DUMFRIES: Balmoral Road. Seems as old and essential as the

Bard himself. The best chip in the South. Closed Tuesday.

ONORIO'S, OBAN: George Street. Legendary but modernised.

Lunch/4-11.30pm.