THE road and the miles to Dundee is paved with stunning scenery but not many distinctive hotels to enjoy a longer stay in what must be one of the most underrated areas of Scotland.

Hidden just a 10-minute drive from Camperdown Park is the Old Mansion House Hotel, located at the

village of Auchterhouse in a quiet countryside setting which complements the building's rich history. Once a castle, it predates the thirteenth century and boasts a visit from William Wallace who visited the house with 300 of his followers in 1303.

The building is of undoubted historical significance to the area but now, as the home of Maxine and Jannick Bertschy, it is a hotel which can rightfully boast a considerable degree of individuality.

The traditional exterior masks a clever blend of the old and new. Sympathetic to the atmosphere of each room, the Bertschys have been brave enough to allow bold, modern colours and an eclectic mix of furnishings to add character to each part of the hotel.

Entering the hotel, there is no reception as such but guests are welcomed into the vaulted room complete with grand piano and soft lighting complementing the glow from the restful golden walls.

Reaching your room is a series of twists and turns on the ancient curved staircases, each corridor a maze housing furnishings and pictures which deserve further examination.

The Earl of Strathmore room is typical of the thoughtful use of the old and new with burnt orange walls and midnight blue drapes complementing wooden floors and heavy traditional furniture, including a chaise longue at the foot of the wrought iron bed. What is most pleasing about this room is that it doesn't feel like a hotel room - more like the en suite bedroom of my dreams.

Forgoing the temptation of the heavy armchairs, it is easy to relax in the comfort of the window seat which overlooks the perfectly manicured lawns and well-groomed trees which make up only part of the 12-acre grounds. On a summer's day, it would be an added bonus to use the outdoor pool or play tennis or croquet here. Only the fluttering Saltire is a reminder that this is Scotland and not a French chateau - but this is now the standard that Scotland can offer.

Dinner is chosen from an imaginative and comprehensive menu offering starters such as stilton and celery cheesecake and main course dishes using the best Scottish produce (it is now unthinkable that it a chef would not do so). The experience was only marred by the fact that a rather spirited party of 30 was also enjoying dinner there that night.

Service was polite and attentive

but there was the feeling of somehow being pushed out of the way as

the larger party required so much attention.

Next morning, the cooked breakfast was beautifully presented but it was eaten to the soundtrack of a young woman vacuuming in the lighter, airier room next door, where the private party had eaten dinner. A pity that such flair and effort in the kitchen was not matched by the service. The newspaper that was so courteously offered the night before also did not arrive until the middle of breakfast. A small point you may think - but one reason we choose to relax at hotels is to be pampered and enjoy good service.

That apart, the Old Mansion House Hotel is run by owners who exhibit a forward-thinking approach to the presentation of ancient buildings. An excellent introduction to what this part of the North-east has to offer.

n Rates per room per night including breakfast single, #80, double, or twin, #105, honeymoon suite, #150. Weekend breaks, inclusive of dinner #165. Children under 12 free when sharing accommodation with parents. Old Mansion House Hotel, Auchterhouse DD3 OQN; telephone 01382 320366.