In the month of May we can really see plants springing into life. Deciduous trees are laden with leaves again, clumps of herbaceous are putting up plenty of strong new shoots and the grass now needs its regular weekly cutting.

Of course this also means that weeds will be growing away furiously, and perhaps I'm lucky since I actually enjoy weeding. When I use my hand-fork and a bucket for the weeds I always get a feeling of satisfaction when I look back onto the finished area, with the soil newly tilthed around the garden plants.

However, I cannot claim that all my weeding is done by organic methods. I do find some weedkillers particularly useful and one of the most valuable to my mind is

the herbicide which contains the active ingredient glyphosate.

This chemical works by a systematic action, meaning that once an area is sprayed the plant absorbs this material through its leaves and then travels right down to the roots. Once applied it can take as long as two to three weeks before it kills the offending weeds, so don't be surprised if you see nothing happening in the first week. Remember also that this systematic weedkiller is only effective in the growing season - therefore, don't waste your time and money applying it too early or too late in the year.

There is no doubt that glyphosate is excellent for clearing sites that are totally full of weeds and over the years I've had success with couch grass, nettles, dockens and even ground elder.

You may find that repeat treatments are necessary for certain problem weeds and if marestail is the culprit, you should try bruising this plant first to help the absorption of the chemical.

The great benefit of this particular weedkiller is that it is inactive in the soil and therefore once the weeds have been killed, the ground can be planted up straight away. For example, you might have a neglected area which you want to make into a vegetable patch, or perhaps you've moved house to a garden infested with weeds and want to create a lawn. If so, consider treating the ground first with glyphosate.

A word of warning though: it can potentially kill any plant it touches, so make sure this weedkiller doesn't drift onto any of your precious cultivated specimens. As with any chemical, always read the instructions first, following them step by step and please make sure you store them in a suitable safe place away from children and pets.

While we're on the subject of weeds, I'm also a great believer in using mulches around the garden. They not only reduce the general maintenance by suppressing the weeds, but also help to keep valuable moisture in the ground. Many can be quite decorative and some will eventually break down, providing humus or organic matter, which can enrich and improve the structure of the soil.

Of course, it is important to clear the ground of any weeds before applying a mulch, and also to ensure the soil is moist. If the soil is dry the mulch can have an adverse effect on the plants by slowing down the passage of water.

The actual thickness for a mulch does vary, depending on the material, but usually a couple of inches is quite sufficient and effective. In some areas of the garden you may wish to consider laying down a membrane first - for instance, pierced polythene, fibre or a polypropylene type of barrier. The advantage of placing such a barrier underneath means the amount of mulching material can be significantly reduced and can save you money.

As for the types of mulches, bark is a popular choice and I have used it on numerous occasions, particularly among shrubs. It is very easily applied, with various grades available which can create quite different results. The finer the bark, the quicker it will degrade, but this can simply be replenished by topping it up again.

A more recent introduction are cocoa shells, which have a lovely smell of chocolate. It is a lightweight material, making it pleasant to handle.

Once applied to the surface, it is best to lightly water it in. This binds the shells together creating a porous mat and a good weed barrier. The rich brown appearance of this product can certainly enhance an ornamental border.

For exposed gardens, bark or cocoa shells may not be suitable and something heavier would need to be considered. Nowadays, there is a wide enough selection of gravels in various textures and colours to suit most people's needs. By choosing several contrasting mixtures you could create bands or gravel patterns, adding yet another dimension to the garden.

Alpines are particularly suited to a gritty mulch, not just to keep the weeds away - the improved drainage helps prevent the necks rotting, especially in the winter.

Larger pebbles are also worth considering as a mulch, which associate well with Japanese-style gardens or a seaside theme, and can create an attractive focal point.

You may even have a suitable mulch on your own doorstep: for example, garden compost and leaf mould, both of which are excellent as soil conditioners and are ideal for the productive garden ornamental areas, with the added bonus that it's free.