It came in a net bag, not a box, and was a mix of fruits and vegetables. My first delivery from an organic 'box vegetable' scheme contained two apples, two oranges, one avocado pear, two parsnips, ten carrots, two spring cabbages, 1lb tomatoes and a bag of salad greens: cost, including delivery, #7.50.

How did they look? The parsnips, as though they had just been dug out of the earth. The carrots were cleaner. None were perfectly shaped. The cabbages still had their outer leaves on. Nothing was old, badly damaged or severely wilted. The insect count was nil.

While some supermarkets and greengrocers are beginning to provide greater variety of organic fruit and vegetables, these are not the only ways to go organic and sample food with more nutrients and less chemical residues.

''Box schemes have revolutionised the buying of organic fruits and vegetables,'' says Lynda Brown in The Shopper's Guide to Organic Food. ''They allow the consumer to enjoy a weekly box or bag of some of the freshest, locally produced, seasonal fruits and vegetables it's possible to eat. And with a flavour that can be out of this world.'' How did mine taste? Most noticeable improvement in taste was in the tomatoes, carrots, parsnips, apples and oranges. Least difference was in the avocado.

The company which supplied them was Viavert. Set up by Stuart Stillie over a year ago, it operates from a warehouse in the Drumchapel district of Glasgow. Though his first project of this kind, for the last couple of decades he has worked with, and managed, sustainable agriculture projects in the North of Scotland, France, Portugal and Canada.

''Europe is much further ahead than the UK in changing back to sustainable agriculture,'' he says. ''In some European countries organic produce is the norm. We have to buy from them because there is just not enough in

the UK.''

Stillie's concern is not just in retailing what's available, but also in encouraging more people, interested in changing back to organic farming, to convert.

He would also like to set up a community organic garden in the city and is currently looking for a site.

He describes his scheme as ''embryonic home-delivery'', rather than simply a ''box vegetable'' scheme. The subtle differences are fully described by Brown in her well-researched shopper's guide, along with a list of schemes around the country.

''Home-delivery'' is the bespoke of the trade. Designed to suit individual needs, it not only gives a choice of fruit and vegetables, but also covers a wider variety of organic produce.

Viavert fits into this category by providing a delivery of organic meat, including beef, lamb, pork, venison and wild boar (all Scottish), as well as free-range organic chicken and Ayrshire bacon. He hopes soon to expand into fish.

''Company-operated'' schemes such as Viavert are usually, but not always, urban schemes catering for an all year-round demand. The best will buy direct form selected growers or well-known wholesale companies who deal exclusively with organic produce.

Traditional ''producer-owned'' schemes are those operated by the grower. They are rural and sometimes seasonal. Those which operate for part of the year start in late spring, closing down through the winter months. Those carrying on throughout the winter months must major on roots, greens and potatoes.

However, Brown advises us to ''stay with it'', despite the lack of variety, for it makes the arrival of new spring produce a cause for special celebration.

Each week the grower harvests whatever crops are in season, makes up the bags or boxes and then takes them to a central delivery point for customers to collect - or they may deliver them. They usually operate within a radius of 20 miles and crops are harvested, bagged and ready for collection within 24-36 hours. Some growers also buy a few extras, such as mushrooms, lemons or avocados. But usually the system operates on the ''surprise'' factor, since you do not know what will be in the bag until it arrives.

With the phenomenal success of the schemes (highest growth rate is in the southern counties of England; lowest is in northern England and Scotland), the surprise element is changing since some box schemes now offer more flexibility, taking into account customers' likes and dislikes.

Standards vary, says Brown. Ask questions about services, delivery and choice. Check they are registered with the Soil Association who provide a leaflet: Where to Buy Organic Food (available from Bristol House, Victoria Street, Bristol BS1 6DF, #5).

Unlike conventional produce, ''field heat'' has not been removed by high-tech storage. Nor have they been packaged or sprayed to improve shelf life, so the rules for preserving their quality are different.

Unpack as soon as possible. Sort vegetables into categories. Inspect for insects and remove. Pick out any yellowing or damaged leaves. Put salad greens, spinach and so on into thick plastic bags and store in the 'fridge. Keep roots in brown paper bags in salad drawer, or somewhere cool. They will keep better with the dirt left on.

l The Shopper's Guide to Organic Food by Lynda Brown (Fourth Estate; #7.99)

l Viavert Organic Produce,

Tel/Fax: 0141 944 7282

l This week sees the arrival on supermarket shelves of a brand new fresh soup from the Covent Garden Soup Company. Carrot & Cardomam has been designated the soup to celebrate the company's 10th birthday, and builds on the runaway success of the bestselling Carrot & Coriander.

To be eaten either hot or cold, the birthday broth contains onions, milk, butter, coconut, lemon juice, demerara sugar and garlic - in addition to cardamom and plenty of carrots.

It seems we are truly a nation of carrot lovers. Which is, after all, no

bad thing, since carrots contain Vitamins A, B1, B2, C, contra-cancer

B-carotene, and fibre. Carrot & Cardamom soup is available now at around #1.55 a carton

C D