aroma therapy

Herbs in many cookery books were also somewhat restricted. However, there was one particular component, a classic in herbal cooking, and that was the bouquet garni. Translated, this is an aromatic bunch of herbs tied together with a piece of string.

The simplest was, of course, sprigs of parsley; the most common was parsley, bay leaves and thyme. However, if you wanted to be a culinary snob about the whole herbal exercise it was necessary to bundle your bunch into muslin, dunk it in your dinner to be and then fish it out before serving. How things change! Coriander, basil, tarragon and spearmint nestle in wee cellophane-covered black pots, still growing next to the Spanish onions and the celeriac on the supermarket shelves. The increasing influence of international cuisine, the greater willingness of people to experiment, be it at home or in restaurants, and the ease of world travel, have all had an impact on the herb market.

These days it is entirely possible to cook Mediterranean-style food without resorting to dried flakes of oregano and jars of pesto.

This situation has been created by our ever-increasing awareness of good, fresh food and the demand created has been dealt with in style. At Stravaigin we buy all our cultivated herbs from Scotherbs of Perth. Established 10 years ago at the start of the culinary herb boom they have grown to supply everyone from Michelin star establishments and cafes to the largest supermarkets in the land. Their herbs have even been sampled by the Queen at her summer retreat. Soaked in oil before circumnavigating the globe in the Whitbread round-the-world race and in the true style of Scottish hospitality, they have a half kilo standing order shipped to the Western Isles weekly to satisfy the dietary requirements of a destitute Iguana.

From small beginnings they now have more than 60 species of herb (and that is a conservative estimate).

l A profusion of herbs will be on offer at the Scottish National Garden Show, which The Herald is delighted to be supporting. It takes place at Strathclyde Country Park from Friday, May 29, to Sunday, May 31. Tickets are available in advance from the hotline on 0990 900123 (national rate)

herb menu:

the main course

roast cornfed herby chicken with citrus couscous and raita

6 cornfed chicken breasts

1/2 tsp coarse sea salt

1/2 tsp cracked black pepper

1 handful of fresh basil

1tsp chopped fresh pineapple mint

small sprig of fresh oregano or marjoram

1 tblsp chopped coriander

2 tblsp olive oil

1 tsp dry sherry

2 cloves garlic

for the couscous

1 packet dry couscous

juice of 1/2 lemon

salt and pepper

1 tblsp olive oil

1 tblsp chopped applemint

1 small red onion, finely chopped

for the raita

1 tub thick natural yogurt

1/2 grated cucumber, pulp removed

2 tblsp fine chopped spearmint

This is the sort of food that is best cooked quickly with the minimum of fuss. As long as the ingredients are fresh and you get the seasoning right, it's perfect summer weather food. In a food professor combine all the ingredients for the chicken (except the chicken). Blitz for two minutes until you have a coarse pate. Coat the chicken on both sides and allow to marinade. Twenty minutes will do, but a couple of hours would be better.

While the herbs are infusing, make your raita. This is a dish readily available under different guises from Bangladesh to Greece. Always delicious, it is incredibly easy to make. Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Season to taste, and Bob's your parent's brother.

Next, make the couscous in the time-honoured method of the microwave. As always, combine all the ingredients with the recommended amount of water, stir together and nuke until soft and fluffy.

Scrape the excess marinade from the chicken breasts before searing them skin side down in a thick-bottomed pan with a little olive oil. Once they have browned, turn them over, add half a cup of white wine and any juices that can be strained from the herb marinade.

Reduce the heat and cook with a lid on for another 15 minutes. Check constantly that the juice has not evaporated. When the chicken is cooked slice diagonally into three large tranches. Place these in a carefully arranged heap on top of the couscous and serve with a big dollop of raita. If you wish to go the whole hog, serve with a fresh herb salad.

and to drink . . .

All the love and attention lavished on cultivating exotic and esoteric herbs is nothing in comparison to the obsessive nurturing of grapes in the vineyards throughout the world. At least the Sauvignon grape, from which our chosen wine is made, can in some ways protect itself. Sauvignon naturally produces a chemical that wards off plagues of wee beasties - in fact, it is the same chemical that ants secrete to navigate their way home after a night Stravaigin.

Pouilly Fume and Sancerre are planted on the chalky slopes of the valley. It has a character that is commonly described as smokey, gunflinty, slightly green and spicy with a herbal finish. They both make terrific summer wines, and are best drunk within three years of bottling.

Only the best Pouillys are known as Fume and are all 100% Sauvignon. Other wines called Pouilly-Sur-Loire are made from the Chasselas grape and produce a light cafe-style wine. Pouilly Fume La Duchesses 1997 complements herby roast chicken perfectly. It is also a great accompaniment to fish or cheese, preferably al fresco. It's available from Threshers at #7.99.

Colin Clydesdale, Restaurant Chef of the Year, and

Carol Wright, pictured above, are chef and greeter

respectively at Stravaigin, Gibson Street, Glasgow.