USE passing places to allow overtaking, declare the repeated signs. A good idea, for the scenery on the southern shore of Loch Ness is so stunning that it makes sense to make way for the locals who've seen it all before. We were on the B852 heading for Craigdarroch House Hotel near Foyers which nestles within woodland on a fairly steep slope down toward the middle part of Loch Ness.

The stopping was no inconvenience, a chance for another gaze at the loch, and journey's end was a mixture of surprise and delight.

The surprise, on having briefly examined the house, before rushing in out of the rain, is that it's a mere four and a bit years old. Built to exacting standards to replicate something put up more than a century ago, it really does beggar belief. Twelve foot high celings, proper picture rails, a beautiful little bar that should have been the butler's quarters and built-in squeaky floorboards all help the illusion. But there's no cheating here. David and Kate Munro are rightly proud of their achievement. The site had a previous life as a bed and breakfast house which the Munros pulled down to make way for Craigdarroch - what a good idea.

The delight, or one of them, was the genuine family warmth of a hotel run by a family. David Munro, a bit of an entrepreneur in his day - not over yet, I think - is an ex banker, salesman and businessman. ''When I was on the road I stayed in so many hotels I got to know what I didn't want.'' He's put that into practice.

Kate Munro manages and is in charge of reservations and son Andrew, one of their three boys, is head chef. Like many talented chefs he has managed to combine the quality of traditional Scottish fare with the more refined methods of French cooking. Add a dollop of inventiveness and you come up with something special.

My memory of the dining room is the excited chatter of politely wielded cutlery, not a lot of conversation, exploring the delights of respective plates interspersed with equally polite and muted moans of pleasure. Mmmmm...was the most oft heard comment of the evening. And not a ripped bodice in sight.

One of Andrew's specialities is a prime piece (14oz uncooked weight) of Aberdeen Angus, hung to achieve the best possible flavour, cooked to order. This has won him the Black Bull Beef Award. One chap who was enjoying the third night of his stay was tucking into his third steak. ''After the first there was no turning back,'' he said with a Mmmmmm.

Being recently constructed Craigdarroch has the benefits of modern building techniques allied to the graciousness of more traditional ways. The bedrooms are sumptuous with en suite, trouser press, tea maker, four poster beds and all the niceties. The views of the loch are breathtaking and many fine walks are close to hand.

The hotel is a favourite for those who shoot, fish, walk and bird watch. Romance, though, is inherent in the place. Andrew met his wife, a young Australian on holiday, in the hotel. Proposals, engagements and weddings are all part of the hotel's ''folklore''. One bride donned wellies, hitched up her gown and marched up to the falls for a wedding picture.

After dinner David takes charge behind the bar where every malt you've ever heard of, and many you haven't, are on offer.

n Rates begin at #55 per person for bed and breakfast. The hotel offers short breaks and a host of other options. Phone 01456 486 400.