Hang the extravagance. There's never been a better time to delight in thoroughly modern millinery, reckons John Davidson

HAS millinery become an anachronism? You might have thought there would be no place for hats in these fast-paced and ever-changing times. Yet in their utter frivolity and functional irrelevance, hats represent a captivating romantic notion - establishing a clear point of difference between what any woman can generally wear to meet the grind

of daily life and the exceptional effort she may make to mark a

special occasion.

Royal Ascot, of course, provides an opportunity for many horse-frightening millinery confections to rear their overscaled feathery heads. But although the event can be relied upon to unleash a plethora of very silly lens-catching fabrications, it also witnesses the finest expressions of millinery art and craft.

The tradition of hat-making

in Britain echoes that of hat wearing . . . not just at Ascot, but for family weddings, garden parties, and all manner of other events on the summer-time social calendar. Indeed, unstinting demand has sustained the long careers of the hat establishment's legendary greats - Graham Smith, Philip Somerville, and Frederick Fox.

But millinery craft has been invigorated in recent years by a new generation of dazzling talents. It began in the eighties when Stephen Jones launched his own stellar career with hats which pop stars and celebrities craved to wear. Then, along came Philip Treacy with his spectacular other-wordly sculptural forms. More recently, the extravagant creations of Scots lass, Jo Gordon, and the exquisite feathered concoctions of Welshman, Dai Rees, have suggested that the hat must still go on.

A great hat, of course, is just a caprice. It's indulgent, silly and (invariably) wildly extravagant. But even now, on the cusp of a new millennium, thousands of well-dressed women ask: ''So what?''

Hat checks: where to find that fabulous flight of millinery fancy

Accessorize,

Argyle Street, Glasgow (0141 248 7751) and Princes Street, Edinburgh (0131 225 8056).

A plethora of summery straws plus a selection of exuberant special occasion styles. #14.99 to #60.

Bhs,

St Enoch Centre, Glasgow (0141 221 4944) and Princes Street, Edinburgh (0131 226 2621).

Cost-effective special occasion styles supplemented by a special range designed by master milliner, Graham Smith. #40 to #95.

Debenhams,

Argyle Street, Glasgow (0141 221 0088); Nethergate, Dundee (01382 221212); Princes Street, Edinburgh (01312251320).

Basics augmented by a designer collection developed expressly for Debenhams by Pip Hackett and Philip Treacy. #15 to #150.

Frasers,

Buchanan Street, Glasgow

(0141 221 3880).

Everything from the mumsy end of Bermona to spectacular head-turners from Genevieve Louis, Headways, Miss Jones, Philip Somerville and Philip Treacy. #40 to #350.

Jane Davidson,

52 Thistle Street, Edinburgh

(0131 225 3280).

A Stephen Jones mini hat shop within this upscale boutique stocked with hats from his model collection plus his Miss Jones diffusion line. #95 to #695).

Jenners,

Princes Street, Edinburgh

(0131 225 2442).

One of the best model millinery departments outside London, with famous names such as Frederick Fox, Herald & Heart, Philip Somerville, Philip Treacy and Rachel Skinner alongside stylish budget buys. #12.50 to #500.

John Lewis,

St James Centre, Edinburgh (0131 556 9121) and George Street, Aberdeen (01224 625000).

Millinery selections from Headways, Peter Betley and Sandra Phillips. #29 to #199.

Suzy's Hats,

Fenwick Road, Giffnock, Glasgow (0141 637 7749).

Specialist boutique offering a made-to-order millinery service plus ranges of hats by Whitley and Genevieve Louis #19.99 to #199.