Before the show

The Gaucho Grill,

133-137 West George Street, Glasgow G2 2JJ. Tel: 0141-204 5211;

open daily from noon

until midnight

Gone are the days when eating out in Glasgow meant a fish supper on the way home from the pub, with adventurous individuals opting for an added pickle.

This delicacy can still be enjoyed of course, but today it is possible to be firmly rooted in the ''dear green place'' whilst sampling the delights of Mongolian Yak Ribs, or nibbling on Vereneke ravioli from Russia.

I had, however, decided to go Argentine for the evening and sample the fare of a city centre restaurant which has been drawing in crowds since it opened late last year.

The Gaucho Grill on the corner of West George Street stands where the former designer shop Cruise used to be.

It is primarily a steak house, with the beef being flown in refrigerated vacuum packs all the way from Argentina and offering the concept of their cowboy tradition of cooking fresh meat over open wood fires.

The bright yellow neon sign outside may be reminiscent of gaudy Tex-Mex joints in Gran Canaria but once inside the atmosphere is far removed from sombreros and macho, poncho-clad waiters.

Instead, the two-floor restaurant has soft lighting and dark wooden chairs with ponyskin seats, chrome and creams and browns. There was not a tequila in sight as the polite, reserved waiter showed us to a

cosy seat upstairs by the huge picture windows where you can

take evil delight in watching

passers-by struggle through the cold whilst enjoying the warm, comfortable surroundings. The Gaucho Grill is actually part of a popular European chain but manages to fake an atmosphere of slightly upmarket individuality.

As well as steak, local delicacies on offer include spicy sausage chorizos, lobster tails, and grilled provolone - an Argentine cheese.

There are some vegetarian options but it is hard to imagine any dedicated lover of vegetables feeling comfortable watching people tucking into bits of cut up cow whilst sitting on rather authentic hairy animal skin.

The wine menu features mainly, and not too surprisingly, Argentine reds, and we opted for what was to be the first of two bottles of a delicious fruity Merlot at #22.

The starters were varied and numerous and included those spicy chorizos, empanadas which are meat and vegetable-filled pastries, and matambres which were described to us by a helpful waiter as being like a flattened Scotch egg.

Being a fish lover I decide to go for the grilled lobster tails, the most pricey of the starters at around #7, while my companion chose a grilled vegetables option.

The surroundings are very pleasant and relaxing, with the tables being cleverly placed so you are not bumping elbows with fellow diners, even when the place is busy.

Our dishes arrived quickly and I was not disappointed with the lobster which was delicious. The lack of garnish or presentation threw me momentarily but was forgotten as I cracked open the shell and scooped out the moist meat inside. My friend's dish was a selection of vegetables grilled and drizzled in olive oil which she said were tasty enough, but she felt they were too lukewarm to be properly enjoyed. She resisted asking the staff to bung it in the microwave for a couple of minutes.

The main courses offer options including chicken and lamb but it

is the steak - you choose the

weight and cut - which draws the eye. We asked for the smaller-sized 225g sirloin and rump cuts with mushroom sauce and a side

serving each of hand-cut chips and grilled mushrooms.

The steaks average around #10 to #13 in price but the potatoes and vegetables are priced separately - so be prepared for the bill being slightly more than expected.

Our Argentine cowboy experience did not disappoint; the meat was cooked to moist perfection and tasted peppery and delicious. The mushroom sauce, rather than drowning the plateful, came separately in a little dish and was thick and creamy.

The chips were huge, golden, and soft inside, and the mushrooms arrived on a skewer slightly charred and piping hot.

It was an experience which left us with a protein high to end all others which I hope to experience again very soon.

Full nearly to the brim we opted to share a dessert of mascarpone honey crepe, which was deliciously sweet without being overpowering, and two cups of tea helped wash it all down.

Swaying gently we decided to walk towards home in an attempt to ease our protesting stomachs.

The food is good and the service prompt and efficient. The Gaucho Grill would be perfect for either a leisurely lunch time but is more than able to provide the venue for a special Saturday night out.