table talk

LEWIS Goldinger is the managing director of Stockwell Bazaar, the china emporium established by his Latvian grandfather in the 1920's. Refugees from the Russians, the family thought they were coming to Scotland for a brief visit.

Fortunately for the kitchens and dining rooms of the west of Scotland, the family stayed on, developing an expertise in china.

Now in his early seventies, Lewis's father David, who started working in the shop at the age of 16, still plays an active role in the business which has taken a more sophisticated turn over the years.

Goldinger and his wife Carol live in a farmhouse near Loch Lomond and their table sits comfortably in their substantial but homely kitchen which is fitted from old pine church pews.

As you would expect, the dresser shelves beside the kitchen table showcase an eclectic range of china, including fine examples of Wedgewood and Coleport.

Says Goldinger: ''The table was given to us by friends a long time ago. It's rectangular with breadboard ends to stop it slipping. We drink coffee here and read the papers, Carol sews on it and when the girls were at school, this was where they did their homework.''

Decorated with candles and fresh flowers from the farmhouse garden, the table is occasionally treated to a beeswax polish.

The Goldingers say they would never dream of replacing it, one of the reasons being that they are not sure whether they could get it out through the door without taking the stretchers off, although their three dogs are making a reasonable attempt at chewing their way through them.

As for entertaining friends, Goldinger says that they have had some great nights round the table, informal and fun.

Carol's reputation as an accomplished cook stems from years of catering for her family and their friends. An equally skilled fork-lift truck driver with a full license, Carol transports crates of china at lightning speed. She is also actively involved with her local riding for the disabled group.

Back in the kitchen, she tends to use homegrown produce, including fresh herbs and free-range eggs from their own hens.

The mainstay of the kitchen is a 1950's Aga in original pale green, with the obligatory kitchen cat curled up in a basket next to the heat of the oven.

The Goldingers particularly look forward to Sunday mornings round the kitchen table, when relations arrive with smoked salmon and bagels for breakfast.

On sunny days, the French doors leading out on to a decked area are thrown open so that guests can enjoy uninterrupted views of the Campsie Hills.

As for the china gracing the Goldinger's table? The Spode Geranium range currently in use could be summed as elegant simplicity - which is not unlike the table itself.