IF you're crossing the Rajasthani desert and have a hankering for Scottish music and cream teas, hold on. Not far off is the enchanting Shiv Niwas Palace in Udaipur, where cream teas are served daily by gracious old retainers.

And, come sunset a tartan-clad piper's band arrives by coach to play on the terrace.

With a repertoire of favourites sometimes accompanied by a display of horses and ponies, the performance is a memorable sight under the Indian sun.

The resident Maharrana, His Highness Arvind Singh Mewar, is very proud of his band. ''We all enjoy Scottish music here. Our musicians can't read a note. They have all learned to play by ear and do it very well.''

The 76th generation of the world's oldest ruling dynasty, the Maharrana takes a deep interest in community affairs and cricket.

''I was a keen player when I was younger,'' he says ''and I used to hope I might play for India one day. But I wasn't good enough, that's life,'' he says disarmingly.

''I did play for my own state of Udaipur. And I also played for Lancashire during a spell in England in the sixties.''

Shiv Niwas palace, with its towers, cupolas and balconies, is everyone's fantasy of an Indian palace; another world, out of time. A place of beauty and grace.

Overlooking a shimmering lake with distant views of other dream palaces, including the Lake Palace Hotel, built on rock foundations in the centre, Rajasthan lives up to its name of being the most romantic state in India.

The town centre, has a medieval air, with many upstairs and downstairs shops and tall, whitewashed houses.

Here and there is a trendy touch: ''Whoopsy's Hair Parlour'' and ''French Frank Changed Here'' (sic) a currency shop.

There are some wonderful age-old temples at Chittor out in the countryside, and Kumbhalgarh with more than 20 miles of thick walls around it. Discovering ancient desert towns brings further adventure.

On a 14-day marathon trip across India you get a good flavour of the country - this itinerary started in the south where jet-lag can be left on Goa's golden beaches after a day's rest.

Next stop is Bombay for a glimpse of this busy commercial and industrial centre.

Gandhi's house, Bombay's Colonial arch, the Gateway to India, seething streets with ancient red double-decker buses and white-flannelled cricketers in parks, tell you something of long-ago links with Britain.

Or, escape from the hubbub and take a short ferry ride across the harbour to see the seventeenth-century caves of Elephanta Island where the monkeys give you a

warm welcome.

From Bombay, now called Mumbai, you are on your way north to the ''Golden Triangle'' which takes in Delhi, Jaipur, Agra; also Udaipur, a former capital.

India changes you. It's a dazzling land of painted elephants, brilliant colour, wandering cows, ancient cars and rickshaws, strange noises and beautiful people.

Not for the faint-hearted - but for those who love life. The most world-weary is enchanted with the Taj Mahal at Agra, India's most famous sight and the world's most popular love shrine.

Built by the Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died in childbirth after 17 years of marriage, the shrine is set in beautiful gardens with pools and fountains. You must rise at dawn to see the delicate marble change colour with the hour; from lilac-white to pink, then gold as the sun takes over.

Jaipur, the ''pink city'' and

traditional colour of welcome,

is the gateway to Rajasthan and, considered the best shopping town in the state.

Looking like a huge film-set, Jaipur has wide boulevards lined with flowering trees; crowds of people mix with roaming cows making their way to the fruit

and veg stores, it's a spectacle unmatchable anywhere.

Broad roads bring traffic pressure. Ancient cars with delirious drivers and rickshaws with ''English speaks'' on the side, converge wildly with hundreds of cyclists. Crossing the road is a challenge; easier on Sundays when it's mainly cows and cyclists.

Surrounded by a massive pink wall, the town is full of wedding-cake palaces and enchanting sights. Streets are crammed with pink shops and houses, where age-old crafts are still hand-made.

One of the landmarks is the Palace of Winds, on a main street where once the ladies of the court could watch the world go by through fine lace screens on balconies.

The City Palace, which takes up a good deal of town and time, spells opulence everywhere. Art collections, armoury and peacock-painted doors give a hint of amazing wealth inherited.

In the courtyard stand two of the world's largest pieces of silver made into urns. Originally used by a former ruler to carry his drinking water to the coronation of Edward VII, he was apprehensive of drinking the murky British stuff.

Amber, the ancient capital, with its Palace and Fort 10 miles off, is a dramatic complex of ochre ruins and temples on a hill in the clouds. Approach is on elephant back or Jeep; I opted for the car ride.

On the way back to Goa, there's a day's stopover in the capital. Old and New Delhi have a mass of things to see: the Mughal monuments, the Red Fort and Jami Masjid, India's largest Mosque. Also, as the capital of British India, you can see the parliamentary buildings - the architectural gems of the British.

Then, there's more manic shopping at Chandni Chowk. It's a huge, friendly ambush, but you'll regret it if you don't keep going.

You may be tired on the flight home, but you will be planning your next trip hopefully. India casts that sort of spell.