IN 1896 Arnold Bennett declared: ''the difference between Bruges and other cities is that in the latter you look about for the picturesque while in Bruges, assailed on every side by the picturesque, you look curiously for the unpicturesque, and don't find it easily.''

Almost 100 years later the same is true, for this beautiful gem of Flanders still remains unblemished with its intimate, winding streets, narrow canals and delightful ancient buildings. This remarkable medieval sprawl can live up to even the most inflated tourist hype as one attraction seems only to be bettered by the next.

Graham Greene likened it to ''a notorious jewel, too stared at, talked of and trafficked over'' yet it has miraculously survived wars and the ravages of time to reach a state where ironically its main threat may come from its own popularity. It is arguably the most perfectly

preserved medieval city in Europe and originated from a ninth-century fortress built to defend the Flemish coast from Norman attack. It grew into a port of enormous power and wealth controlling the lucrative wool and cloth trade which passed through its harbours and docks.

Today, however, you will search in vain for any such waterfront activity. The city began its economic decline in the fifteenth-century partly because of a general recession in the cloth trade but principally because of the silting of the River Zwin, the city's trading lifeline.

By the sixteenth century its seatrade collapsed totally as the river became

un-navigable to all but the smallest of boats. Several miles down the coast can be seen the result of this dramatic change-Zeebrugge, (Bruge-on-Sea), the huge container and passenger port which was created in 1907 to become the modern gateway to Belgium.

As the wealth shifted north with the merchants, the city was left deserted, its canals were empty and its ageing quiet charms would have simply withered away had not its popularity been awakened by wealthy nineteenth-century visitors. Nowadays it is a living city of human proportions and has rightly been described as the cradle of Flemish art.

You can visit the Groeninge Museum to discover the masterpieces of Jan Van Eyck, Hans Memling and Pieter Breugel. Moving on further down the Djiver is the Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk whose massive spire is the tallest in Holland and Belgium. Among the many treasures inside is a delicate marble Madonna and child by Michaelangelo which was the only work to leave Italy during the artist's lifetime and was a major influence on sixteenth-century painters in the city.

It is easy to let yourself travel back in time as you wander among the high gabled houses and imagine an age when these narrow cobbled street were home to princes and wealthy merchants. Often described as the Venice of the North, the city is more reminiscent of Amsterdam with its many cobbled lanes woven around a pattern of peaceful canals and bordered by lawns, trees and graceful arched stone bridges.

To enjoy a panoramic view of this beautifully proportioned city it is worth a climb to the top of the thirteenth-century Belfry which houses a remarkable carillon of 47 bells. This tower has an octagonal lantern which is visible for miles around and the sheer grandeur of this municipal extravagance symbolises the economic power of a city whose confidence, as a leading member of the Hanseatic League, was never in any doubt. Below is the enormous Grote Markt, edged on three sides by rows of beautiful gabled buildings.

Heading off in all directions are a warren of streets and lanes containing a myriad of cafes, bars, restaurants and shops. For those intent on guarding the calorie intake this is dangerous ground.

Every second shop contains tempting Belgian chocolates and the aroma of freshly made waffles (served with cream) hangs languorously around every street corner. If your thirst needs quenching then a refreshing beer may be the answer but remember, local ales can be as high as 9% in volume and they slip down with frightening ease. Some bars, thankfully, restrict the consumption of such fearsome liquids to three bottles per customer.

The city is ideal for the visitor to walk around with most of the traffic kept out of the narrow cobbled streets around the centre.

An enjoyable alternative however, is to take a horse-drawn coach or a leisurely boat trip down the canals, allowing the knowledgeable local experts to guide you through the fascinating Flemish folklore of the town. Bruges with its history, art and culture is the jewel in the crown of Belgian tourism. It is a city best visited out of season if you want to savour, at your own pace, the experience of its many traditions.

The city has spent time and money to preserve its image and while occasionally it can almost resemble a medieval theme park, there is very little illusion here, this open-air museum is the real thing. Bruges, seemingly untouched

by war and time, is the perfect tourist attraction, a city frozen in time.