Winter is the correct time for pruning many deciduous trees – it’s much easier to open the tree up by removing congested and crossing branches and encourage a good shape when its leaf canopy doesn’t get in the way. As a result of November’s cold spell, however, I advised against pruning then so as to reduce the risk of frost damage, which can make the tips of pruned branches die back.

Sap doesn't flow during this dormant period so you don’t get "bleeding" from a pruned stem. This bleeding can cause serious damage in some trees, so you should know or find out when it’s safe to prune the tree you have.

After dormancy, a tree’s sap works almost like blood. In late winter and early spring, the roots become engorged with water and the resulting pressure forces the sap, containing water and nutrients, up through xylem tubes, or arteries, to reach every stem and twig. Newly developing buds need this sap to trigger swelling and growth.

Once the leaves have formed, their transpiration pulls the liquid all the way up from the roots, but you’ll damage the tree if you prune it once the sap has started to rise but before the leaf canopy has fully formed. If you cut through a xylem tube when the sap isn’t being used, it spills out and the tree "bleeds". (People have actually syphoned off this sap to make maple syrup and birch sap wine, a brew I confess I haven’t sampled.)

Birch, betula, bleeds fairly copiously, so, unless you’re a brewer, it’s best to keep pruning to a minimum. If you do need to cut back, choose late summer or early autumn.

If you have to prune an acer, hornbeam carpinus or lime tilia, which are ready bleeders, you may need to find out if it’s still safe to do so. Their sap may rise after a mild spell following a series of very low temperatures, though you’ll do little damage to the tree if you cut a small branch and check if sap begins to ooze out.

If, for any reason, such as snow damage, a branch breaks and starts bleeding, you’ll need to take action, whatever the species. Prune back to just above a join with another branch or the trunk and let the tree form its own protective seal.

Don’t try to stop the flow by binding up the wound because moisture could get in and cause a fungal disorder. And, for the same reason, don’t paint a material, such as Arbrex, over the damaged area.

Many of our native trees have developed successful strategies to deal with storm damage. And they’re very restrained when it comes to bleeding So, hazels, hawthorns, beeches, ash and oaks can be safely pruned during the winter.

The tulip tree, liriodendron, sorbuses and, of course, crab and culinary apples and pears are good candidates for late winter pruning. Tackle a cotoneaster or berberis once the birds have finished eating the berries. And for fresh, brightly coloured wands leave willows or dogwoods until new growth is about to start.

If you live in warmer, west coast areas where you dare grow semi-tender species, delay pruning until all risk of frost has passed. And don’t snip off the dead flowerheads of hydrangea that are protecting the new flower buds. Wait until mid spring.

You’ve missed the boat with these readily bleeding species: laburnum; spring-flowering, deciduous magnolia; poplar, or populus (except P x candicans and its cultivars, which can be pruned in late winter); and vitis, or edible and ornamental grape vine. These should generally be pruned from late summer to autumn.