I have often recommended sparkling wines from the UK and the rest of the world over Champagne, purely on value for money. But as we head towards Christmas, it's time to dwell on just how good the real stuff is.

The fact that the top New World sparklers describe themselves as Method Champenois tells you that they all crave to be talked about in the same circles, and while it's true that there are many world class sparklers out there, if it's a really special occasion, don't be a scrooge.

It's the quality of the mousse in Champagne that really sets a good one aside. The bubbles should fizzle across your palate and burst so delicately that the flavours land on your palate so gently it's as if by magic. Quite why anyone rich or otherwise would want to waste that by spraying it around a room is anyone's guess.

Champers comes in many forms, dry, semi sweet, vintage and rose but my personal preference is for the Brut non vintage cuvées which are often assembled from a selection of cracking years. Expect flavours such as peaches, crisp apples and even almonds and cream. By the way, other than Tesco's always excellent own label, do expect to pay £40+ folks.

Cattier Brut Blanc de Blanc

One of my favourites but then I'm a Chardonnay tart. Clean crisp apple hints with a toasty palate and a medium to long finish. Quite sublime

Majestic £50 per bottle £45 mix 6

Pol Roger Brut Vintage

Pop the top of one of these and find your inner Churchill, folks. Floral and perhaps quite deceiving on the nose because the palate is far busier than you expect. Rich and buttery with a creamy texture. It's no wonder Winston loved it.

Waitrose £79