Kirkhouse Inn, Glasgow Road, Strathblane
I have issues with the Kirkhouse Inn, not least that they have possibly the world’s most annoying table booking system.
It presents 1990s forms and demands creepy data (date of birth) without bothering to mention important things like er: how much. And, um, availability. So forget that.
We phone instead. And are told categorically the dining room is shut tomorrow (Tuesday). Bloody amazing, I says to Debs. reading on the internet right then that it’s not. Then we find on Facebook a page which infers book here and we’ll maybe get back to you and let you know if, yes if, you can have a table.
Thanks. But we do. And we hear absolutely nothing back. Until on the day of the meal - just a few hours before it and after we have made other plans - someone phones up to ask if we are coming.
Eh? So it’s with surprise that when we do arrive I walk in and see the dining room is not completely empty, but actually almost full. Resisting the temptation to go from table to table asking how they managed to get through the Crystal Booking Maze, I skulk into a table in the corner while my family stroll in wondering why we’ve been up and down and round and about to lovely Strathblane. On a Tuesday night. When it’s raining.
Well, it’s Indian Street food night, innit? Obviously. I’d like to say what comes after the booking hell is entirely predictable Fawlty Towers service. But right out? The service is outstanding. The young waitress handles Polly’s coeliac questions deftly, the waiter follows up with full detail on what can be eaten (almost everything) and before we know it, drinks are being brought, baskets of naan breads delivered, tap waters poured and crikey here are the starters. Now. Before we eat.
There’s a Masterchef link in here. Not entirely sure what it is as I stopped reading at that internet form, but the chef is maybe a finalist? Meaningless if the food isn’t good. And … dum-dum-dum it will turn out to be? Damn. Excellent.
Mainly. Two courses, £26, including rice and nans all round. Five choices. Six of us. Cal has the Chicken 65; tangy, tamarindy, properly moist chicken, grown up presentation and tastes. Thumbs up.
Luca’s Charred Paneer? Again great spicing, looks appetising, plenty of it too and smash-grab full of flavour. It’s the Lamb and Rosemary Seekh Kebab, though, that is voted starter of the night, being as good as the waiter promised (no flim-flam here) in the sense it is expensively and carefully prepared yet zings with silky spicy and just enough char.
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On the dullsville side of this circular table, Debs and I have ordered the mixed and the chicken pakora (someone had to). These are simply, very clean, oil-free, slightly flaky, crispy versions of what we’re all used to elsewhere
But I’ve picked the Hyderabadi Chicken Biryani next. It’s fragrance turns heads as it arrives, and while the meat is flawless and has obviously been marinated in yoghurt and spices, overall it’s just a little too dry and the rice, always a risk this, wins the battle for blandness. Boo.
If you ask me, a biryani needs to be a little bit fast and wide, maybe even a tad oily, to keep the flavours popping. Yes, I’m thinking of you Mr Original Khyber in Shawlands.
Get Ron's review two whole days before it appears anywhere else.
We’re not finished yet though. There is a hallelujah moment coming like an express train, toot-toot. No. It’s not the Lamb Rogan Josh which is still rich and deep and dark with melty meat. Neither is it the Butter Chicken which splits the vote, Seona really enjoying it, Debs finding it just too sweet and tomatoey. It’s the South Indian Garlic Chilli Chicken.
I know. Is this even a real Indian dish? Who cares. Here, the meats (we have the lamb too) and the gravies and the spices are so long cooked, and so silkily melded that it is frankly: just delicious. Best curry of the year. Didn’t see that coming.
Kirkhouse Inn
Glasgow Road, Strathblane
Tel: 01360-771771
Opening: Seven days, apparently.
Menu: Tuesday and Wed nights are Indian Street Food nights with biryanis, Chicken 69, South Indian Garlic Chilli Chickens, all with the same Masterchef fairy dust. 4/5
Service: Booking system aside, the staff on the night were extremely professional, relaxed and enthusiastic. 5/5
Price: Two courses including nan and rice for £25.95. Great value. 5/5
Atmosphere: Country hotel vibe, comfortable, low lit, pleasant. 4/5
Food: Simply put? They can really make a curry in here. Careful, considered, preparation shines out. Not perfect overall but enough pizzaz to make it all pretty memorable. 8/10
Total: 26/30
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