Salandini’s & Nowita
Glasgow
During a kind of perfect Saturday afternoon which has involved doing the square root of, well, you know, I’ll end up buying a Strawberry Bakewell and a Raspberry Crumble for later and being offered, there and then, at My Home Bakery hugely discounted and juicy looking chicken and basil mayo sandwiches. It being that closing up time of the day.
But attractive as they are I have to refuse, standing as I am at their counter right now stuffing my face from a tub of handmade Roast Banana and Rum Ice Cream that I just bought from Nowita a few yards down the road.
There’s also a scoop of Chocolate Macaroon under that banana and I’m distracted by the hey-who-knew meringue could be so chewy delicious when submerged in that just-tempered ice cream that the nice guy behind the chill counter at Nowita told me he made himself this very day.
On top of that…well, I was actually only rounding off my lunch at Salandini's when I ambled into Nowita for dessert in the first place.
What a great street this is for eating. The Partick Duck Club is over there, Celino’s is across the bottom of the road and Plant Blonde is up at the top. But it was Salandini’s I came for.
Walking in while the clank of the Farmers’ Market being disassembled still rebounded, when the crowds were ebbing away and yet as they’re still hand-rolling fresh pasta behind the counter in here. At Salandini’s.
It's a kind of in-your-face-place in the sense that as soon as I’m through the door I’m at the counter and someone’s talking to me, and there’s pasta sheets being tumbled into a pile by a woman, and a guy through from the back holding trays so it’s all a-hustle-and-a-bustle. Hmm, I say, looking down at the menu, while a random geezer looms right up behind me and looks down at it too.
“Can I eat it hot,” I add, “and while sitting out there?” Nodding towards Hyndland Road. Yes, comes the answer and suddenly I’m peering at that menu trying to pair pastas with sauces. And, yes, I will make an ordering mistake here. More of that later.
Anyway, there’s no ravioli left (ten pieces for £4.50); the Sage Butter is finished too (I’m not big on that anyway). But there’s still Tagliatelle, Pappardelle, Farfalli and Mezzelune. Sigh, I could be here til mezzanotte. All I have to do is decide which sauces to pair them with: Napoli, Italian Sausage, Courgette Pea and Lemon and Creamy Mushroom.
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No pressure but can I phone a friend? I’ll go with the Mezzzelune (which comes, I realise, with Walnut and Gorgonzola), I say, then snap out of that. What was I thinking? Where’s the art in it? How could I tell how good they actually are at making the pasta?
Minutes later, I’m out at one of the two rickety two-seater tables on the actual pavement, West Enders filing by, staring down as they do, a double-decker bus driving by, blaring music, and two very pretty plates of pasta sitting quietly, almost beautifully, before me.
Two? Nah, I wasn’t just going with one. First up: Tagliatelle with Courgette, Pea and Lemon. It looks so damn appetising Like a photo from a recipe book: all pale pasta and light green pea, with parmigiano dusted like snow, burnished crumbs sprinkled here and there too.
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But hang on, the pasta’s good, though maybe not hot enough, but here’s where I blundered: isn’t this the wrong sauce? It’s fresh, it’s pleasant, attractively sweet with the pea but it clags to the tagliatelle. Hmm. Which on reflection should really be ordered with a slippery, lubricating ragu, say. My mistake.
However, complete reverse ferret as they used to say in newspapers, when the pappardelle is forked up. This is fantastic; hot, silkier than a George Best chat up line, flavour clinging to every light strand. Fresh pasta is all about mouth feel, and with the hunks of glistening, seared Italian sausage, this is mouth-feel-o-rama. As I mentioned at the start: perfect.
Salandini’s
49 Hyndland Street
Glasgow
Closed Tuesday and Wednesday, otherwise opens 7am til 5pm
Menu: Handmaking pasta joint with pappardelles, raviolis and mezzalunes. Next door to Nowita’s handmade ice creams too. 4/5
Service: They’re mainly about the takeaway pasta but if you sit in they’re pleasant and helpful, if very busy. 4/5
Atmosphere: Good, if you like the vibe from a bustling pastificio and don’t mind sitting at a pavement table and the sun is shining. 4/5
Price: Their most expensive pasta is £4.50, the sauces only run to £6 max. Great value. 5/5
Food: If you pick the right sauce with the right pasta, as I did half the time, this is lovely stuff with that magical mouth-feel. 8/10
25/30
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