STYLE AND SUBSTANCE
Family-run for three generations, the Cairndale recently underwent an impressive £2 million renovation that saw its leisure club transformed into a luxury spa. My friend and I arrive for a two-night stay by train from Glasgow, the walk to the hotel just over five minutes from Dumfries station.
Situated within a proud Victorian townhouse, we’re welcomed into a modern lobby and greeted warmly by members of staff to check-in. In addition to the spa, the hotel boasts two main dining areas adjacent to the lobby: Reivers Restaurant and The Lounge.
With 86 rooms, the three-star hotel is at the larger end of boutique but still feels intimate. We’re promptly shown up to our room on the first floor to begin readying ourselves for dinner.
SLEEPING MATTERS
Our generous twin room is fitted with two single beds, a wardrobe, a desk, a television, and a sofa. A Nespresso maker with a selection of three coffees and a tea tray stocked with Borders biscuits make for the perfect pre-breakfast nibble the following morning.
Inside the ensuite bathroom, we are thrilled to discover a whirlpool bathtub – a rare treat since the rain shower took over modern hotel bathroom fit-outs. Toiletries are provided by Noble Isle and include shampoo, shower gel and body lotion. We regretted not packing our own conditioner as they had none on hand (only a minor inconvenience).
The room itself, swathed in layers of brown and orange décor, is a little dated. But following the extensive spa development, the rooms are due to be refurbished next year. We enjoyed a comfortable night’s sleep for the duration of our stay.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
On the first night, we dined in The Lounge. The staff, while consistently courteous and attentive, seemed a little overwhelmed for a quiet Thursday evening. We perched at the bar for a cocktail before dinner but were out of luck without a trained bartender on hand. After two attempts at a dirty martini, the waiter, my friend and I decide that a glass of wine will do instead before we are taken to our table.
From The Lounge menu, we order a selection of dishes: grilled hispi cabbage, chorizo croquettes, celeriac risotto and fries. They don’t quite hit the mark but the intention is there – the restaurant possesses the clumsiness of a new opening that just needs a little time to work out the kinks.
On the second night, we dine in the more upscale Reivers restaurant. Both my friend and I opted for the set menu which is an incredible value at two courses for £22.50 and three courses £28.50. Here they serve more traditional fare. We tuck into croquettes, steak and chips and breaded chicken with sticky toffee pudding and cheesecake for dessert. The restaurant is bustling on Friday night, and the staff is as attentive as ever.
NICE TOUCH
The real star of the trip is the luxury Cairndale Spa. The hype that has surrounded it since opening is undeniably warranted and visiting is a must for any wellness or relaxation aficionado. The 1,300 square metre spa is set over two storeys and feels like a playground of relaxation.
On the ground floor, a thermal pool lined with opal-like tiles that mimic the scales of a fish has several jets, water blades and airbeds. You can lose hours moving from one room to the next between dips in the pool: aroma steam room, herbal steam room, Himalayan salt sauna, infrared sauna and herbal lounge. There is a bookable rasul, hammam and private bathing suite. The spa has its own dedicated café and juice bar.
For those brave enough, the Cairndale has a cold plunge. I asked the dedicated member of staff if I could test it out. He makes me dangle my legs in first while issuing a series of health and safety warnings. “If you can’t keep your legs in, then it’s not for you,” he advises. I make it past the calf-test but when it’s time to dip into the ice bath I only last about 15 seconds. I feel refreshed for the rest of the day, regardless.
Both my friend and I have booked massages for the spa day. I opt for the signature Angels’ Share full body massage while my companion chooses the warm deep muscle massage with hot salt pebbles. Comparing notes in the post-treatment room, both experiences were top-notch. We have been entirely converted to Jello.
As part of our spa package, we are treated to afternoon tea. The tea list is extensive with coffee available for those so inclined. We tuck into an overflowing tower of sandwiches, cakes and scones while wrapped in our plush green Cairndale robes.
By far one of the best spa experiences I have ever had, I am champing at the bit to return as soon as possible.
DRINK IN THE SIGHTS
On our second night, we take part in a Mostly Ghostly walking tour around the town of Dumfries. We traverse the sites on foot, learning about body snatching, murder and hauntings alongside Robert Burns lore. A great way to explore the town by dark, the tour was both humorous and educational about the historic area.
A must-visit (if you plan to leave the spa) is The Globe Inn, a notorious hangout of Scotland’s National Bard. If you have access to a car, the medieval fortress Caerlaverock Castle is under a 20-minute drive from the Cairndale.
ABOUT THE AREA
Dumfries is a historic market town in the southern region of Dumfries & Galloway. It’s a destination for golfers with several courses and clubs in the area. Fans of Robert Burns can learn about the bard at The Globe Inn. The town centre is small and walkable with a number of bars, restaurants and cafes throughout. Dumfries station is centrally located and just six minutes walk from the Cairndale.
Travel Information: The Cairndale Hotel and Spa, English Street, Dumfries DG1 2DF. Tel 01387 254111. Rooms start at £140 per night. Prices for a Spa Stay are from £209 pp; Spa Days start at £99 pp. Find out more at https://www.cairndalehotel.co.uk/
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