Fhior restaurant in Edinburgh launches new autumnal menu

The warren of rooms that makes up the restaurant is well-lit and the vibe is lively with an upbeat playlist of soul and pop tunes. It’s not the dark smouldering environment common to fine dining establishments; it’s casual but considered.  With a glass of crisp fizz we break bread, a dark sourdough with Orkney beremeal. In a Nordic nod, wooden butter knives are used to spread thick layers of both salty cultured butter and a homemade fermented cheese inspired by sweet Norwegian Brunost. 

This autumn for the first time Fhior is offering an à la carte option in addition to the tasting menus that have built the restaurant’s reputation. The front room, facing Broughton Street, is kept for walk-ins, so you can now pop in for a glass of wine and share a few dishes without a reservation. 

The menu resists the labelling of courses, allowing guests to pick and choose at will, though there’s a clear progression from snacks to bigger plates. 

(Image: Fhior)

Knowing Fhior’s reputation for sustainable seafood, we order a selection of snacks and starters from the sea. I can never resist an oyster and here fat Cumbrae oysters are topped with a scoop of jalapeno granita. I love the flavour combination, the zip of chilli enlivening the creamy oyster, but find a mouthful of ice a bit jarring. A bigger hit is Fhior’s take on the lobster roll, this year’s street-food trend. Fhior’s version uses a steamed bao instead of the ubiquitous brioche, and sweet Scottish langoustine tails. A smoked langoustine emulsion adds a welcome bisque-like flavour to this excellent morsel. Slices of day-boat mackerel are tender with a light char to the skin, topped with a Japanese-style furikake-style mix of Aberdeenshire chillies, seaweed and sunflower seeds. 

My highlight is a huge hand-dived Orkney scallop, seared in a scallop butter to further deepen the flavour, and served with a buerre blanc infused with the gentle citrus of pine tips, and a rose of kohlrabi tinged with the pink hues of beetroot. It’s a dream of a dish, and the accompanying scallop roe sesame toast is like the best fish finger ever. 

Moving further down the menu, North Sea cod with mussels in a buttery sauce is a classic: juicy and rich, with roast cauliflower, greens, and little dollops of apricot ketchup for sweetness, and crunchy shallots adding texture. The mushroom harvest is celebrated in a seasonal barley dish, cooked like risotto in a dark girolle stock, with black garlic, a bright green leek and parsley oil, and sauteed girolles. It tastes like coming in from the cold. 

The drinks list is short, sweet and approachable, a handful of curated cocktails, beer and spirits from favourite local producers, and a dozen wines by the glass. I have a biscuitty Crement D’Alsace with my oysters, and a richly mineral Melon de Bourgogne with the cod.  Many of the dishes on the à la carte are larger versions of daintier dishes on the tasting menu. It’s a casual and more affordable way to experience the culinary talents of Scott Smith and his team. It’s worth noting though that servings are still relatively small so you’ll probably want a starter or some snacks, and are likely to be tempted by pudding. That’s no hardship as the desserts are delightful. 

(Image: Fhior)

Chocolate from East Lothian-based Chocolate Tree takes centre stage in a rich chocolate ganache with white gooseberry sorbet, sour hibiscus and smashed meringue. The chocolate is dark and intense, and the sweet and sour elements are skillfully balanced.  The meal concludes with cute cartoon-like petit fours for a last little autumnal treat: a toasted pine marshmallow on a spring of pine needles; and a tiny spotted mushroom with a Shiitake and white chocolate filling. Delightful, just like the rest of the evening. 
fhior.com