By Brian McIver
On the short journey from Washington DC’s Union Station to our hotel, there was a moment of excitement as street after street was suddenly closed off by police.
As our Uber driver sensed out-of-towner excitement at what world-shaking newsworthy event we might be nearing, he moved to settle us down, advising, “Hey, there’s always something happening around here.”
And he wasn’t kidding. We had arrived in Washington DC to explore what is fast becoming the most-talked about city in the world, ahead of this November’s presidential election.
We got right in the thick of it and stayed in the Hotel Washington, literally around the corner from the White House. From the 11th floor Vue terrace bar, you can see the roof of the famous residence.
Not long after we arrived in the city, President Joe Biden shocked the political world by bowing out of the election in favour of Kamala Harris. His supporters thronged the city, holding signs of support and thanks along Pennsylvania Avenue.
Meanwhile Donald Trump fans and street merchandise-sellers were proudly displaying MAGA hats and ‘Never Surrender’ T-shirts featuring images of his attempted assassination just a few days earlier.
It's quite something to sit in your hotel room and watch history being reported on live TV, then look out the window to see the actual building where it’s happening.
But even when there’s not a packed presidential news cycle, DC is a city that pulses with energy.
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From its founding in 1790 as a purpose-built capital city, to its modern incarnation as a multicultural home of politics, law enforcement, culture and business, it’s a captivating and unique place to visit.
With incredible history and art, stunning parks and monuments, as well as vibrant bars and restaurants, DC has something for everyone, whether you’re running for office or an open-top bus.
From our Hotel Washington base, next to the treasury and the statue of half-Scots history maker and stage musical inspiration Alexander Hamilton, we were able to explore most of the city by foot.
If the mid-30s temperatures get too intense for hoofing it, you can hop on and off Big Bus Tours to the major attractions such as Arlington National Cemetery, featuring John F. Kennedy’s grave, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Marine Corps War Memorial.
We began our adventure with a walk round the White House gates in lieu of a tour inside. To book a visit, non-U.S. citizens must apply to their local embassy, but the British consulate does not currently process applications. There is, at least, a fab visitor centre with great history and displays, as well as souvenirs for sale.
Although round the corner is where you really want to go.
Seen on countless news broadcasts, Lafayette Park is the picturesque square to the north of the White House where you get ‘that photo’ everyone wants when visiting the city.
The presence of various peaceful protestors, alongside live satellite news reports being filed, adds to the buzz - West Wing fans will be in their absolute element. It’s also close to Black Lives Matter Plaza, with the road painted in bright yellow in recognition of the 2020 protest movement.
While the White House itself is harder to access for international tourists, the US Capitol is open to all, and you can walk around the Congressional corridors of power, enjoying the stories of experienced guides.
It’s a stunning building from the outside. But it’s also sobering when you recognise the pillars and stairways from news footage of the violent scenes that occurred on January 6, 2021.
While DC’s present is full of buzz and excitement, its history is rich and vast.
From the Capitol, you can enjoy the view of the reflecting pool leading up to the 555 feet tall Washington Monument, and beyond to the Lincoln Memorial which dominates the view.
The three buildings are joined by a beautiful rectangular park known as the National Mall. Home to some of the 21 official Smithsonians in the DC area, the Mall is also one of the most famous running routes in the USA, around 7k in distance, and highly recommended.
Like most of the cool stuff in DC, entry to (and up) the Washington Monument is free, but ticketed either in advance or with walk-up tickets distributed every morning.
The National Air and Space Museum, the National Museum of African American History and Culture and the National Zoo are the only DC Smithsonians you have to book (free) tickets for in advance, but it’s worth it for some breathtaking exhibits.
Air and Space was a particular favourite, featuring the Apollo 11 command module, Neil Armstrong’s space suit and the Wright brothers’ first plane, as well as a life-sized X-Wing from Star Wars and a broadcast-model of the USS Enterprise from Star Trek.
While the Museum of American History has everything from Abraham Lincoln’s iconic hat to the first ever US flag, as well as Captain America’s shield, various first ladies’ dresses and a happy pairing of C3-PO and R2-D2. The nearby Portrait Gallery museum also features official paintings of every past president amongst its collection.
Another unmissable stop, just ten minutes from the White House, is Ford’s Theater, where actor John Wilkes Booth assassinated President Abraham Lincoln in 1865. The attraction tells the story of events leading up to the murder, including the abolitionist movement and the Civil War.
Another paid-for attraction is the International Spy Museum, the definite DC highlight for my kids. Upon entering, you are assigned a codename and key card to let you check in at spy kiosks where you will undertake tasks, kind of like a work experience Mission: Impossible.
With incredible stories, testimonies, artefacts and loads of interactive games, the museum depicts espionage from the days of the Civil War right through to the War on Terror, and will entertain the whole family – not to mention the brilliant exhibition of James Bond stunt cars.
DC is also famous for fantastic eating spots, most of which come with their own stories of history made over drinks and dinner. The Old Ebbitt Grill, on 15th St near the Hotel Washington and the White House, was the city’s oldest saloon, and a reputed favourite of presidents Ulysses S. Grant and Teddy Roosevelt.
Our dining highlight came during a short trip to Georgetown, a cool studenty area famous for its bars, boutique shops and restaurants and easy to access by taxi or tube. Martin’s Tavern is an absolute must.
It’s bustling, busy and full of history. Tables feature plaques detailing which presidents had sat there, the most popular being Booth 3, the ‘proposal booth’, where JFK asked Jacqueline Lee Bouvier to marry him.
Most importantly, the food is spectacular and fairly priced– and is perfect for an extended lunch break, whether you are busy holiday-making or deliberating supreme court rulings.
DC is an incredible city where history meets the present, just about everywhere you go.
As the election nears and news broadcasts beam out even more frequently from Lafayette Park and the Capitol, it feels special spending time in such an important and vibrant place.
It’s one thing to visit the amazing museums and read the storied history. But you’re also likely to experience it being made right in front of you.
There’s always something happening round there.
FACTBOX:
*British Airways flies from Glasgow to Washington via London Heathrow from £720 return including taxes and fees, and from Edinburgh to Washington via London from from £688 return including taxes and fees. To book, please visit ba.com/washington
*At the Hotel Washington - Rooms start from $359 (£271.50) plus tax per night.
*Most museums and attractions are free, but some, such as the Capitol (visitthecapitol.gov/), Washington Monument (https://www.nps.gov/wamo) and the National Air and Space Museum and Museum of African American History and Culture (both at www.si.edu/) may need booked in advance.
*International Spy Museum Tickets start from $18.95 (£14.33) for an adult. Children age 6 and under can visit for free, and for Ford's Theatre, all tickets are $3.50 (£2.65). Big Bus tours start from $53 (£40) per adult, at bigbustours.com
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