By Robin McKelvie
After an iffy summer, with patches of sunshine just teasing at what could have been, you might be tempted to give up on Scotland’s beaches. But don’t despair just yet as in the isles we have some of the best beaches I’ve seen anywhere in the world across over 100 countries.
These are swathes of beaches that will make your spirit soar and are worth savouring even if it turns more into a bracing stroll than a sunbathing session. And as the schools go back and we move towards autumn you might even have the joy of these stunners all to yourself…
Calgary Bay, Mull
I’ll never forget my “discovery” of this remarkable beach on Mull. I was researching a book on camping in the late 1990s and just couldn’t believe that you could camp somewhere so beautiful. Rugged hills paint a natural amphitheatre on both sides, with the endless draw of the Atlantic cobalt sweeping into the distance. On a sunny day, the waters turn myriad shades of blue, Calgary Bay looking like it’s been touched up for a glossy brochure. Doable as an excursion from Tobermory, but you’ll want to camp over if possible. A sundowner before bed and then sunrise cuppa here is sublime.
Stay: Camping right by the beach. Free, but please donate. campingscotland.com/campsites/calgary-beach-campsite
Scarista, Harris
This was a close run thing and I don’t mean Harris being included. That was a given, as this Outer Hebridean oasis sports at least half a dozen worthy sandy charmers. I’ve gone for sweeping Scarista, the first beach I ever came across here that stole my heart within minutes of getting off the ferry. That was in 1999 and over the years I’ve kept discovering more and more beaches sprinkled all up Harris’ western littoral, but I keep coming back to Scarista. Even on a sunny day you’ll often see more seals and seabirds than people. A wee golf course fringes the sands too.
Stay: Scarista House – Plush digs a stone’s throw from the beach; dinner too. scaristahouse.com
Kiloran Bay, Colonsay
Colonsay is like a microcosm for the Inner Hebrides and fittingly it has a senses-tingling Hebridean beach. CalMac only reach the eastern shores, so you’ll have to yomp or cycle out to appreciate these wide sands. The wee bench peering across the scene is one of my favourite in Scotland. At low tide there are sea caves to explore, where evidence of prehistoric man has been found.
Stay: Colonsay Hotel – handy bolthole near enough the ferry. colonsay-hotel.com.
(Image: Islay)
Machir Bay, Islay
Islay may be more known for whisky than beaches, but this beach is worth visiting the island for alone. The surf is often savage so I’ve never swum here, nor would I recommended it. But – and it’s a huge but – this beach has been turned up to 11 on the dial. There are hulking hills, the sands stretch on as far as you can see, huge breakers plunge ashore and a salty spray drifts across the sands, adding drama to the shipwreck that pokes into view at low tide. Sand dunes and trails through them add a sandy playground and a great place to take photos. You’ll want to linger and, yes, visit nearby Kilchoman Distillery; this is Islay after all.
Stay: Port Charlotte Hotel – local seafood, cosy rooms, sea views and a celebrated whisky bar. portcharlottehotel.co.uk
St Ninians, Shetland mainland
This camera-pleasing tease is glorious. A natural tombola (the UK’s largest) creates a sandy arc that links the Shetland mainland with bijou St Ninian’s Isle. Water laps both sides of the beach with the width of the sandy causeway dictated by the tides. It will look familiar if you’re a fan of the Shetland TV series, as producers often pan over these aesthetically pleasing sands. The water is aquarium clear and you might see more than fish, with the occasional dolphin or even whale cruising in.
Stay – Continue your aesthetically striking stay in Shetland at Lerwick’s Scandi-Scot chic Sea Winds, a self-catering bolthole beautifully curated by local artist Ruth Brownlee. facebook.com/seawindsshetland
(Image: Coll)
Coll
I’m cheating a little here and finishing with a whole island. Pancake-flat Coll is bathed in glorious beaches all around its coast. I love asking in the bar at the Coll Hotel how many beaches the island sports. The answer varies and there is often one that people are “keeping for myself”. By my (very) rough average calculation there are about 23. They come in all shapes and sizes, from the sweeping expanse of Crossapol and Feall, which are separated by a glorious tuft of machair, right through to tiny patches of sand you cannot see from the road and you’ll have to pioneer to off grid. My tip is take or hire a bike and then just ramble around the island (with a picnic in tow) seeking out your favourite.
Stay: Coll Hotel – Best place to stay on Coll; superb local produce laden food too. collhotel.com
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