As the kettle boils for a round of peppermint teas, Whirly and Gregorie Marshall keep a watchful eye on the moody Ayrshire skies.
The work they do to create Blackthorn Salt, a premium, small-batch product, is dictated heavily by weather conditions as sea water drips down through 54 wooden taps and a series of channels that are adjusted daily.
Seeping through the spiked twigs and thorns of the UK’s only graduated thorn tower in Ayr, these water droplets partially evaporate leaving any remaining liquid to become a concentrated brine that is ready for the panhouse, where the next steps are a mix of “skill and alchemy”
Asked how they keep up with a growing demand for the final product, Mr Marshall said: “Well, we hope, pray and work really hard.
“But a lot of what we do is weather-dependent which means whether it’s wet, windy or sunny has a huge effect on what we can produce
“Looking to the future, we’re exploring different ways to make the tower more efficient.
“There are universities researching fluid dynamics and whether we can alter the way in which the water goes across the branches, and we’ve had thermal imaging and all sorts done.
“It’s a nice challenge and something we’re getting better and better at.
“We’re not quite there yet, but one day we will be.”
The Herald last visited the Blackthorn Salt tower in late 2020, as Scotland had slowly started to emerge from lockdown and Mr and Mrs Marshall had entered into the very early production stages of their new venture.
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Mr Marshall, a former architect who had previously been primarily an importer of salt, running his family’s century-old business, Peacock Salt, told of a long-standing desire to make salt himself.
Taking inspiration from traditional methods once used in Germany and Poland, he said: “I went to see a tower in Germany.
“A lovely chap invited me across and I stayed in his house with his wife. As he showed me around two or three different towers I started to wonder, 'how do we do that over here and will it work?'
“Because over there it is done with underground brine, and here is seawater, a completely different thing.”
In the years that have passed since it’s not just recognition from the Great Taste Awards panel of blind tasters that have helped to establish Blackthorn Salt as one of Scotland’s finest artisan food products, and proved that the process very much does "work over here".
Within the converted train carriage that serves as their office, the couple has welcomed a series of chefs including Peter Mckenna of the Gannet, Graeme Cheevers of Unalome and Mark Donald of the three-Michelin star Glenturret Lalique to discover the fascinating methods used to create these mineral rich and flavourful crystals.
A personal favourite for Mr Mashall was TV’s James Martin, who compared the whole operation to a ‘cross between Willy Wonka and Noah’s Ark’.
“I’m assuming you were the Willy Wonka character in that”, Mrs Marshall jibes playfully as he tells the tale.
As a result of its growing reputation burgeoned by appearances on TV shows such as The Hairy Bikers and Amazing Hotels: Life Beyond the Lobby, you’re nowadays likely to see Blackthorn listed proudly on menus across the country, although Mrs Marshall says they’re just as happy to know their salt is being ordered on repeat without fanfare.
“I love when people use our name and want to talk about what we do because it shows their commitment to sustainability and sourcing Scottish goods.
“We know our salt is expensive because it’s difficult to make, so if it helps them to relay that to the customers and explain why a dish might cost more then that’s great.
“But sometimes when they don’t mention it, it shows what lengths they’re prepared to go to for the taste and you think ‘oh gosh, they really are that dedicated to their work’.
“It’s such a lovely thing because you meet and get to know so many people who use our salt in their own way, whether that’s Michelin star chefs or butter, ice cream and cheese makers.
“We could be stocked in Harvey Nics or Harrods, but we’re also in the post office down the road.
“You’re introduced to so many different worlds.”
Having secured their three-star rating, the team at Blackthorn Salt will next month journey to London alongside fellow Scottish producers Lussa Gin and the Comrie Strathearn Cheese Co, where they will find out who has been crowned the overall winner of the Great Taste Golden Fork Award.
Mrs Marshall said: “You can tell your team that they’re doing a great job, but when your product goes through so many different levels of judging from people who are experts in their field to come out with three stars, it’s just awesome.
“That kind of recognition means so much to us all.
“It’s a complete honour to be going along with the two other Scottish companies.
“No matter who wins, it is such a privilege to be in this position and we’re looking forward to it enormously.”
For more information on Blackthorn Salt, visit www.blackthornsalt.co.uk.
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