I couldn’t wait to revisit Coumeenoole Beach, Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry.
Many years ago, I visited this splendid beach, yearning to go there after seeing it in the film, ‘Ryan’s Daughter’.
This time, Ron, my husband, and I are there with Dora, our driver/guide. Despite being Irish, Ron had never visited the Dingle Peninsula, and after years of bending his ear about it and Kerry, we’re here.
I link Dora and rush along the sand, La-La-La-La-La ing the film’s splendid theme music by Maurice Jarre, and paddling joyfully in the surf.
Mention you’re visiting the Dingle Peninsula and most people stare blankly at you. But this is a joyous, stunningly beautiful place - I guarantee you’ll fall in love with it, as I did years ago.
The journey can be great too, as we discover by eschewing air travel, choosing to travel by car ferry from Holyhead to Dublin, then breaking the journey in Adare, before driving to Dingle town. We travel on ‘Ulysses’, Irish Ferries’ super, luxury cruise ferry, admiring a calm, Irish Sea. It’s early September. The weather’s beautiful.
The Club Class Lounge is peaceful, comfortable and spacious, with excellent staff and service. Benefits of paying the small supplement include complimentary snacks, soft drinks and newspapers.
Ron and I are so relaxed, it’s an effort to leave ‘Ulysses’, but a night’s sleep in Dublin awaits us, before travelling about two and a half hours to Adare, County Limerick.
Known as ‘Ireland’s Prettiest Village’, we test this out. The village, with its thatched cottages, is packed. We park near a pink tour bus in the Heritage Centre’s car park. Inside the centre, there’s an Historical Exhibition, denoting Adare’s past, from Norman times. You can book to visit 13th century, Desmond Castle - daily tours run from June to the end of September.
Nearby is Holy Trinity Abbey Church and it’s also worth visiting the restored Countess Dunraven Fountain close by.
At award-winning, Fitzgeralds Woodlands House Hotel & Spa, Adare, we’re delighted with our sumptuous suite, and especially touched by a cellophane and ribbon- wrapped, welcome-iced, plate, with enticing, miniature cakes and chocolates. We realise this 4 star, family run hotel, set in 40 acres, is tops for customer service when I’m sent a personal plate of vegan deliciousness.
We drag ourselves away to meet Gardener Caoimhin, for our 30 minute garden tour. He oozes pride for Mary’s Organic Garden, where food, such as garlic, micro herbs, mixed salad, spinach, tomatoes and courgettes are produced for the hotel. Elderflowers and crab apples from the hedgerows are also used. All hotel flowers are from the garden.
There’s a real treat at the apiary - the four hives house native Irish honey bees, producing honey from over 100 different flowers. We learn about the bees’ waggle dance!
Our greatest treat is when we’re introduced to George, Hunter and Sam, resident alpacas. Ron elects to feed them. They love him!
It’s time to test the produce in Timmy Macs Bistro, the hotel restaurant. We choose from the vegan menu - garden tomato soup and local sourdough, then griddled cauliflower steak, with peppercorn sauce, dressed leaves and chips. Delish.
Next day brings a two hour drive to Dingle, on the Atlantic coast. It’s a Gaeltacht region, where Irish is the mother tongue. It’s another chance for Ron to practise his school Irish. I’m well impressed as he translates.
At award-winning, Dingle Benners Hotel in Dingle town, we receive another Irish hotel welcome, from its staff and Dora, our driver/guide for the next two days. I’m beyond excited at being back in Dingle.
We all lunch in Mrs Benners Bar. Our musical luck’s in as Dora arranges tickets for a folk concert at St James’ Church opposite.
First, it’s what I’ve been longing for - the famed, essential, Slea Head Drive, part of the Wild Atlantic Way. Dora drives us past standing stones, and points out Ventry Beach - one of 15 Blue Badge beaches in Kerry. We pass beehive huts, used by nomadic people, and dry stone walls. Lichen’s proof of the pure air.
The peninsula’s a dream for archeologists, with over 2,500 historical artefacts. Expertly, Dora negotiates the drive, including the ‘Devil’s Elbow’, where water from the mountain falls on the road. She points out Innishtooskert (known as The Sleeping Giant), one of seven Blasket Islands.
At the Slea Head Drive, halfway point is The Blasket Centre, Dunquin. In reception, we praise ‘The Journey’, a panelled, stained glass window, while awaiting a guide from the Office of Public Works, who proudly shows us round the upgraded centre.
This is a must-see for anyone wishing to learn about island life and the history of the Blasket Islanders. One, Peig Sayers, a storyteller, seems to be revered and often mentioned.
The museum showcases the Blasket Writers with their stunning portraits. I’m drawn to their faces and stories and grateful these have been preserved. You can watch a film and hear the words of the Islanders. We look through a window to see the Great Blasket Island. Outside a currach (a traditional Irish boat) rests.
Dingle town’s warming up musically, with traditional music wafting from a nearby pub. Dingle’s an original, endearing, colourful place, which holds a special place in my heart.
Inside St James’ Church, Dora, Ron and I climb to the gallery and meet Eoin Duignan, who’ll be playing uilleann pipes and low whistle in the concert.
Other musicians are Máire Begley (harp, piano accordion and vocals), Mary Conroy (guitar and vocals), Jeremy Spencer (fiddle) and Seán Leahy (guitar).
e’re soon foot-tapping and swaying to airs, reels and jigs and loving them all. It’s a concert we don’t want to end. We learn later that Amy Winehouse performed in the same church in December 2006.
Tired, we savour our splendid room at Dingle Benners Hotel.
Next day, rejuvenated after a delicious breakfast, Ron and I are ready for a full day with Dora, on the Slea Head Drive, part of the Wild Atlantic Way. We pass the beautiful estate of Lord Ventry, who introduced black faced sheep to the peninsula.
On route, there’s a spectacularly situated farm, where you can enjoy a sheepdog demonstration and a visit to The Famine Cottages.
Lunching at Kruger’s Bar, Dunquin, Ireland’s most westerly bar, I recognise ‘Ryan’s Daughter’ actors, in framed photos.
I also recognise the style at Louis Mulcahy Pottery, Ballyferriter. Still enjoying a piece bought over thirty years ago, I’m searching for one to keep it company.
First, it’s time for a 45 minute comprehensive, guided tour, including the slip casting room and the Jigger and Jolly one. Mary deftly paints a fuchsia on a mug. Mugs are the bestsellers, but there’s a huge pottery range for sale.
Such is the quality that a large urn can cost 3000 euros! We’re told that ‘Louis is always experimenting with glazes, constantly experimenting with colours and takes in colours of landscapes subconsciously’.
Fresh Atlantic ocean air gives us an appetite for dinner at the Chart house, Dingle, named ‘Best Restaurant in Dingle and Kerry’, where we enjoy a memorable meal.
Next day’s a biggie - we await the orange, ’Peig Sayers’ boat at Dingle Marina, for our full day, Great Blasket Island tour. I’m a tad sad at spotting the statue of Fungie, the ‘Dingle Dolphin’. I recall the wonder of swimming with Fungie, the male bottlenose dolphin, in the 1980s. He vanished in 2020, a great loss to Dingle.
Skipper Billy O’Connor’s ably assisted by Chris, who keeps us happy with fruit sweets, to distract us from lively waves.
The scenery’s stunning; the weather’s grand, as we transfer to a dinghy for the short journey to the island’s harbour.
We listen intently to the guide’s talk and enjoy his tour of the remains of the buildings. We’re warned not to go near the calving seals on the glorious beach below.
Then the best bit - Ron and I sit on a deserted bench, picnicking, while gazing at the peaceful ocean, towards the mainland. You can’t fail to think of the Islanders - the last ones were evacuated seventy years ago.
And, if you really want to experience life there, you can stay in a restored, island cottage. Just contact owner Billy or his wife Alice. Another time maybe?
No choppiness as we leave Ireland on a much bigger boat than Billy’s - Irish Ferries’ Dublin Swift. We enjoy an excellent, Club Class Lounge again, with dinner served to us. It’s a high-speed ferry. But we don’t want to leave Ireland that quickly.
Fact box info:
For more information: Ireland.com
Ireland is part of the common travel area, meaning there are no travel restrictions for British travellers to Ireland
Irish Ferries fact box info:
Fares start from £129.00 each way for a driver and car. Pets travel free however must be prebooked.Irish Ferries Rail and Sail option, operating on the Holyhead to Dublin service, begins at £43.50 each way. With four daily departures from Britain and over 2,400 stations in Britain, travelling has never been so connected.
To book, visit www.irishferries.com or Trainline (for Irish Ferries’ Rail and Sail option)
Fitzgeralds Woodlands House Hotel
Double rooms start from £116 on a bed and breakfast basis
Benners Hotel
Double rooms start from £119 on a bed and breakfast basis
The boat ride website is:
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