PETER SAMSON
I read a travel feature on types of holidaymakers, and it declared that a person selecting the same destination year after year is categorised as an ‘old reliable’.
OK, I’ll take the reliable and pass on the old, thanks.
For the record I happily confess to holidaying in Sri Lanka some seven times in the past decade but one thing for certain is that each visit has been very different each time.
My reasons for repeat visits to this island off the coast of India are simple. It’s the perfect winter sunshine destination delivering that much-welcome vitamin-D boost with temperatures of 25c plus, peppered with the odd burst of refreshing rain that usually comes and goes within an hour.
The Sri Lankans are welcoming, and the food is amazing. Budget-wise it’s attractive too with Which? consumer experts declaring it one of its ‘best value’ destinations for 2024.
Aptly named – Sri Lanka translates as ‘resplendent island' - the tear-drop land mass is a quarter of the size of the UK and with a third of our population.
Over the years in our visits, we’ve travelled far and wide from the southern coast where Galle is its biggest city, through the interior to visit the historically significant Sigiriya Lion Rock, dating back to the fifth century, and to the northern area where the diverse city of Jaffna dominates and now welcomes visitors following the end of the island’s civil war. We’ve seen a lot of the island.
The most recent visit switched our focus back to the southern coast where we focused on three destinations, Ahangama, Galle and Thalpe before rounding off our stay in the bustling capital Colombo. Our wish-list was simple - relaxation, some superb beach days and enough cultural immersion to remind us why Sri Lanka draws us back again and again.
To make our most recent trip different we decided to mix it up when choosing accommodation and covered the full gamut from exclusive private villas to boutique hotels and finishing off in five-star luxury. By creating these standalone-like holiday experiences we knew we’d be in for a treat as well as a trip in stark contrast to previous visits.
Located along the southern coast of Sri Lanka, Ahangama, our first call, is a vibrant little fishing village renowned for pristine beaches and surfing hotspots. It’s in early stages of development as a tourist resort but with more than enough excellent eateries to satisfy the hungriest.
The sun-kissed shores where golden sands meet crystal-clear waters, provide perfect settings for unwinding amid breathtaking natural surroundings. For those seeking more adventurous pursuits, Ahangama offers world-class surfing opportunities at renowned spots like nearby Midigama. We opted, however, just to spectate from our cabana!
Stuthi Villa was our choice of accommodation when we arrived in Ahamgama. We booked one of their five air-conditioned suites with an outdoor shower in a renovated colonial style building set in a lush garden complete with pool.
Asanka, the property manager, looked after us very well and laid on a healthy breakfast on the terrace each morning. His local knowledge was invaluable, and nothing was a bother for him.
He set us up with a reliable tuk tuk driver who whisked us off one night for what was the best rice and curry dinner we’ve experienced in all our Sri Lanka travels. Only a 10-minute ride from Stuthi and we were in Manoris Kitchen, a basic-looking outdoor restaurant set in the garden of a family bungalow.
From the kitchen came a stream of mouthwatering curry dishes – at least nine – along with a generous bowl of red rice. The food can only be described as sensational hence most evenings the place had a queue of hungry diners ready for the next sitting. Not only was the food excellent but the value was outstanding, costing around £7 per head including drinks.
About 30 minutes drive from Ahangama lies the historic city of Galle, a UNESCO World Heritage site that exudes old-world charm and colonial allure. The main city area has an amazing fish market and shopping to satisfy any keen retail fan. It also has a major cricket stadium, a venue for many international matches.
Steeped in Dutch and Portuguese influence, Galle boasts a well-preserved fortification that transports visitors back in time to an era of maritime trade and colonial expansion. In the past we’d been among the day-tripping holidaymakers who, for just a few hours, wander through the quaint, cobblestone streets of Galle Fort, home to a plethora of boutique shops, art galleries, and charming cafes housed within ancient colonial buildings.
This time we decided to stay put for several nights to soak up more of this fascinating walled town. We stayed in a sweet, boutique hotel called The Fort House, again with only about six or seven rooms but very well appointed and right in the heart of Galle Fort’s maze of little streets. Switching from day-tripper to longer-stayer meant we could enjoy early morning walks around the fortress walls, alongside the locals. The streets and restaurants in the evening were less frenetic but nevertheless very pleasant. From Galle Fort it’s a stroll of about 30 minutes to a beautiful beach spot called The Shack where the café team there laid on some exceptionally tasty beach food at great value prices.
The Galle Lighthouse offers panoramic views of the azure ocean, while Galle National Museum provides insight into the region's rich history and cultural heritage. The old Dutch Hospital building is now converted into designer shops, cafes and restaurants and well worth a visit.
Many Fort premises are used as venues for the annual Galle Literary Festival which in recent years has welcomed guest authors and speakers including Sir Alexander McCall Smith, Mary Beard, Tom Parker Bowles, Dame Maggie Smith and Sebastian Faulks. As well as guest authors the festival features arts events and cookery demonstrations held around the city. The 2025 festival will run from February 6-9.
Continuing along the southern coast, the idyllic neighbourhood of Thalpe beckons travellers with its tranquil beaches, luxurious resorts, and enchanting sunsets. Thalpe epitomizes serenity and seclusion, making it an ideal retreat for those seeking a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life.
There’s an impressive strip of lavish beachfront villas and we opted to stay in one called Ambalama. A friend joined us, and we stayed for three nights, splitting the cost. The deal for exclusive use offered four luxuriously appointed en-suite rooms all with ocean views, an inhouse chef and a team of four other friendly staff who ensured a superbly comfortable stay. Each morning the chef discussed that evening’s dinner requirements, shopped at the local market for ingredients and delivered restaurant quality food. Meals were charged out as the cost of ingredients with a 20% premium as ‘cooking charge’. All well worth it. Staying in that fully staffed luxurious villa was a real treat and one I’d recommend especially for a family or group holiday.
We rounded off our stay in Colombo, opting for a five-star hotel called the Marino Beach. Aside from the fact the spacious room had a shady balcony, the rooftop infinity pool was spectacular both in its size – easily 75m long – and its stunning views out over the ocean. From our base we walked dozens of miles each day, savouring the capital’s sights and exploring new eating places in some of the outer suburbs such as Horton.
In the evenings we headed to Galle Face Green which from Thursdays to Sundays transforms into a street food paradise. For less than £5 each we ate tasty freshly cooked curry and rice al fresco alongside dozens of locals, testimony we’d picked well.
How would I sum up that last repeat visit to Sri Lanka? Diverse and extremely enjoyable – from fiver curries to five-star luxury villas. There’s something to suit all tastes – and holiday wallets in that island paradise. We’ll be back for more.
FACT BOX
Peter flew to Sri Lanka via Dubai with Emirates Airlines.
He stayed in Stuthi Villas in Ahangama, The Fort House in Galle and the Marino Beach in Colombo via booking.com. Prices ranged from £33 per person per night in Ahangama, £60 per person per night in Galle and £55 per person per night in Colombo.
Exclusive use of Ambalama Villa in Thalpe which can sleep up to 10 is from £600 per night. More details at www.ambalamavilla.com/srilanka/
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