A brilliant choice for a break in Spring or Autumn is Sicily – an island I have adored since first visiting in 1981.
I travelled there again recently and it’s still as wonderful as ever. EasyJet altering the flights at the last minute was a bore and necessitated an overnight stay in Gatwick. While The Hampton by Hilton was perfectly fine, the 4am alarm call for the 6am flight was decidedly less so. And the Gatwick security experience was absolutely dire.
Things went from bad to worse as we were bumped at the last minute from the hotel that looked OK on booking.com but we ended up being put into their sister hotel – the Olimpo Hotel in Letojanni (a city close to Taormina, but I had wanted to be IN Taormina). This is easily one of the most depressing places I’ve stayed since some ropey hostels while backpacking back in the 80s when I was researching my first guidebook – Europe by Train.
Anyway, back to the awful Olimpo hotel. It was teeming with the sort of Italians you normally don’t meet (or wouldn’t want to). They were queueing at the bar for free shots at 09:30am and I haven’t seen as many budgie-smugglers in a swimming pool since I was last in Russia. Jeez Louise, it was almost enough to put you off your breakfast, but then, that wasn’t hard.
By the time you got into the 1970s neon-lit cafeteria (buffet with massive queues, of course) and found that there was no bacon and eggs, no decent bread and the only orange juice they serve is weak squash ( I mean, squash, on an island where the fruits are falling off the trees by the roadside?!). Yep, breakfast was truly appalling. The rooms weren’t much better.
Anyway, enough moaning. Things improved dramatically the next day as it was from chalk to cheese and onto the stunning Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo. Set in the heart of Taormina, the service is impeccable; the Michelin-starred restaurant is outstanding and the views from their terrace views have enchanted sophisticated travellers for more than a century.
The first hotel to be built in the city, it gazes out across the coast towards Mount Etna and beyond. Enjoy the manicured gardens and an impeccable and extensive breakfast on the Literary Terrace. The hotel also boasts a spa and you’re slap bang in the town centre, right next to the Greek amphitheatre which dates back to the 3rd century BC.
There’s a variety of different room categories. This truly is one of the best hotels in the world. It’s not cheap, but it is value for money as it is an outstanding de luxe hotel in one of the world’s most beautiful and unique settings.
After a couple of nights in that little piece of paradise it was on to their beachfront sister hotel – the Belmond Villa Sant’Andrea Hotel. It has the personality of an elegant villa and was built by an aristocratic family in 1830. Set among lush, subtropical gardens, with the sea crashing right below your geranium-strewn windows, this secluded retreat retains all the charm of a private residence.
Both hotels have heated swimming pools and spas, and at the Sant’Andrea you are right on the beach and sea.
READ MORE TRAVEL
Is it whisky or whiskey? Drink tours in Maryland & Virginia
Scotland's best islands to visit: 5 you should choose instead of Skye
The rooms are divine and the food and service are exemplary. It’s more relaxed than its big sister up the road. The Sunday Brunch is a family affair and a bit of a local legend so needs booking ahead.
I then did the predictable thing when in Taormina – The Godfather’s Tour. Well, come on, you can’t go to Sicily and not do it.
Yes, I know it’s cheesy but that trilogy just happens to be my favourite films of all time. You visit the charming time-warp towns of Savoca and Forza d’Agro, In atmospheric Savoca you find Bar Vitelli where Michael Corleone asks Appollonia’s father’s permission to court her, and the church they married in.
The village where Vito Corleone started his life and where Kay and Michael re-visit in The Godfather 3 is pretty Forza d’Agro –an unspoilt gem.
Normally I hate guided tours but this time I found a cracker. Salvina – a wonderful Sicilian with a passion for her island gave us a private tour and also we did a walking tour of Taormina with her. She works for a company called toursbylocals.com That company are well worth checking out. They offer tours in 182 countries worldwide, but Italy is their top seller. You can contact your guide before booking with a request to customize any tour.
A memorable meal out I had in Taormina would have to be the one at Villa Ducale – a hilltop boutique hotel with excellent fresh food and great fish. It has outstanding views of the sea, Mount Etna and the Strait of Messina. The town centre is a 25-minute walk away and the hotel offers a free shuttle service to the centre of Taormina, and an airport shuttle is available on request. See villaducale.com Sicily is wonderful. It’s not Italy; it’s Sicily, and the history, architecture, food, wine, weather, locals and Belmond hotels make it one of the most beautiful special places on earth.
FACTBOX
Katie Wood stayed at the Grand Hotel Timeo, A Belmond Hotel in Taormina. Rooms start from £564.30 including breakfast. For further information visit belmond.com/ hotels/europe/italy/ taormina/belmondgrand-hotel-timeo Rooms at the Villa Sant Andrea - A Belmond Hotel start from £769 including breakfast. For further information visit belmond.com/ hotels/europe/italy/ taormina/belmondvilla-sant-andrea
Why are you making commenting on The Herald only available to subscribers?
It should have been a safe space for informed debate, somewhere for readers to discuss issues around the biggest stories of the day, but all too often the below the line comments on most websites have become bogged down by off-topic discussions and abuse.
heraldscotland.com is tackling this problem by allowing only subscribers to comment.
We are doing this to improve the experience for our loyal readers and we believe it will reduce the ability of trolls and troublemakers, who occasionally find their way onto our site, to abuse our journalists and readers. We also hope it will help the comments section fulfil its promise as a part of Scotland's conversation with itself.
We are lucky at The Herald. We are read by an informed, educated readership who can add their knowledge and insights to our stories.
That is invaluable.
We are making the subscriber-only change to support our valued readers, who tell us they don't want the site cluttered up with irrelevant comments, untruths and abuse.
In the past, the journalist’s job was to collect and distribute information to the audience. Technology means that readers can shape a discussion. We look forward to hearing from you on heraldscotland.com
Comments & Moderation
Readers’ comments: You are personally liable for the content of any comments you upload to this website, so please act responsibly. We do not pre-moderate or monitor readers’ comments appearing on our websites, but we do post-moderate in response to complaints we receive or otherwise when a potential problem comes to our attention. You can make a complaint by using the ‘report this post’ link . We may then apply our discretion under the user terms to amend or delete comments.
Post moderation is undertaken full-time 9am-6pm on weekdays, and on a part-time basis outwith those hours.
Read the rules hereLast Updated:
Report this comment Cancel