California is an enigma to me because this is the wine region that gave us both the Napa Valley and blush zinfandel. The former is basically Disneyland for wine lovers while Blush zinfandel is a bit like sarin gas in that I wish it could be uninvented. If you were a caravanner in the 70’s and 80’s who wanted to feel like the wet field in Norfolk was as good as the Costa del Sol then blush was the wine of choice but it just didn't cut the mustard if you had even one working tastebud.
Although premium production didn't begin until the 60’s, the Napa valley catapulted itself into the fine wine world during the legendary 1976 Paris Wine Tasting. In what must now feel like a Gerald Ratner moment for the French Wine industry, their top experts agreed to a blind taste off between California and Bordeaux and guess what? Yeah, you guessed right, the wine selected as the clear top wine in both red and white was from the sunny state. It was the moment the Napa winemakers crossed the rubicon.
One of the oldest vineyards was founded by Charles Krug in 1847 and taken over by the Mondavi family in 1943. One of the brothers, Robert Mondavi left the vineyard after a feud with his brother and created his own Oakville Vineyard and in turn established himself as one of the icons of the Californian wine industry. Mondavi went on to create a partnership with Baron Philippe de Rothschild, ultimately creating one of the greatest wines in the world, Opus One. If you’ve never tasted it, add it to your bucket list folks but start saving right now because they retail for several hundred a bottle. I of course, suffer for my art so I've tasted several vintages down the years without disappointment but let me tell you that the ‘87 was simply divine. Lush but not overripe black fruits with silky tannins, cherries and hints of cigar boxes, literally the stuff of dreams, but mere mortals needn’t fear because California is awash with soft almost creamy red wines. You can find most grapes in the Napa from Pinot Noir and Petite Syrah to Zinfandel, Malbec and Cabernet Franc but for me, it’s definitely all about Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. They do a number of blends or meritages but in the main, the Napa is a haven for single varietals and as such it’s a cracking region to to focus on if your trying to find your perfect palate match. The problem for me is that people always ask what my favourite vineyard is other than Opus and I find myself aged 8 again with ten bob in my pocket and too many sweet choices in the local shop. Over the years though, I keep heading back to Mondavi, Frogs Leap, Grgich, Inglenook and St Supery to name but a few.
Anyway, it’s fantasy prices this week so I can't wait to to warm up the old corkscrew and liberate a sunny cabernet. Slange Var
Bakestone Napa Cabernet
Dark, rich black fruit with complex layers of cassis, vanilla, butterscotch and spice. It opens up very easily and is just a delight. Well done chaps
Corney & Barrow, Ayr £27.95
Frogs Leap Zinfandel
A big old style Zinfandel with spicy chewy raspberry fruits and hints of spice on the finish. Partner with a rich dish to get the best out of this fabulous but rather big wine.
Woodvintners, Edinburgh £28.00
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