FEW places with a population of 9,000 have a Cathedral, but then Dunblane is no ordinary small town.
Set in gentle, rolling hills of Stirlingshire and divided in two by the Allan Water, it is one of the most handsome in central Scotland, has a fascinating history and has been pulling in visitors since Victorian times.
These days it is best known as the birthplace of tennis champ Andy Murray, who has brought immense pride and joy – not to mention a notable post box - to his home town.
Scotland's Insider Guide: Jedburgh
History
Named in honour of St Blane, the town grew up around the compact and stunning Cathedral that dominates the centre, built between the 11th and 15th centuries and seat of the area’s bishops until the Reformation.
In the 1878 the Dunblane Hydropathic Establishment opened, offering wealthy Victorians an opportunity to “take the waters”, as was the fashion of the time, for everything from rheumatism to depression. Now known as Dunblane Hydro, it is still a popular hotel and spa resort.
On 13 March 1996, 16 young children and their teacher were murdered at Dunblane Primary school in Britain’s deadliest mass shooting. Though the loss remains etched on the heart and soul of the town, residents have shown extraordinary dignity in dealing with the tragedy.
Things to do
No trip to Dunblane is complete without a visit to the Cathedral (dunblanecathedral.org.uk), still an active place of worship for the Church of Scotland. Entry is free and if you’re lucky, volunteers might take you up the bell tower and tell you the odd ghost story.
Nearby is the wonderful Leighton Library (leightonlibrary.org.uk), built by Bishop Robert Leighton and opened in 1687. The oldest purpose-built library in Scotland, it has 4,500 volumes in 89 languages and is open every day except Sundays from 11am – 1pm till the end of September. After that, admission can be arranged by appointment.
A little further down the street sits the golden post box painted to commemorate the gold medal Murray won at the 2012 London Olympics.
The town has an array of lovely walks, as highlighted by Judy Murray, tennis coach and mother of Andy and his older brother, fellow Wimbledon champion, Jamie. “The Darn Walk one of my favourite things to do in Dunblane. It’s a three-mile mile path dating back to Roman times that connects the town to neighbouring Bridge of Allan through woodland and along the river. You start at Dunblane Golf Club and come out close to Bridge of Allan’s famous ice cream parlour, the Allan Cafe. Perfect! And you can always get the train back.”
Judy adds: “Dunblane also has an amazing museum. It was beautifully refurbished several years ago and is housed in a very old and quaint building right beside our historic cathedral, where Andy and Kim got married. It tells the story of the town from the 13th century and also houses some of Jamie and Andy’s tennis memorabilia.”
Keen skateboarders, meanwhile, will want to visit the skatepark at Laighills Public Park on the banks of the river.
Where to shop
Dunblane High Street has some great little independents including gift, candle and craft shop Charisma and bridal emporium Point Nouveau. Toy Hub (toyhubdirect.co.uk) will impress little ones and parents alike with its vast stock and friendly service.
Where to eat
Just across from the Cathedral is the Old Churches House Hotel (oldchurcheshouse.com), whose buzzy restaurant is popular with locals and visitors alike. The Cullen skink is a revelation, while the bread and charcuterie sharing boards make perfect grazing platters.
Right on the High Street is Choices Deli, a relaxed café and takeaway that does evening meals at weekends. The homemade sausage rolls, pizzas and mini cheesecakes are a particular highlight.
Just a quick hop from Dunblane railway station, the friendly and informal Beech Tree Café serves up tasty breakfast rolls, soups and paninis, and top-notch home baking.
Dunblane resident Meghan McCormack recommends another local favourite. “The town has loads of lovely restaurants but Bennetts the butcher, right next to Andy Murray’s post box, does a steak and pepper pie that is the perfect treat.” The shop is also renowned for its sausages.
If it’s something a bit stronger you’re after, The Tappit Hen (belhavenpubs.co.uk/pubs/perth-and-kinross/tappit-hen) on Kirk Street has a good selection of beers and whiskies, all served up in a warm and welcoming atmosphere, while the more modern Riverside pub kitchen on Stirling Road (theriversidedunblane.co.uk) has an extensive wine list and eclectic menu. The Village Inn on Stirling Road has regular live music.
Scotland's Insider Guide: Jedburgh
Where to stay:
Deluxe: For the ultimate in understated luxury, treat yourself to a stay at historic Cromlix (Cromlix.com), 10 minutes outside the town. Owned by Andy Murray, it boasts beautiful bedrooms, a top-class restaurant overseen by Albert Roux and a private chapel. And yes, there’s a tennis court. Rooms from £385, dropping to £280 over winter, with breakfast.
Comfortable: Dunblane Hydro has been encouraging guests to embrace its restful ambience and beautiful grounds for 140 years. Now owned by Hilton and operated under the Doubletree brand (doubletreedunblane.com), the hotel has moved with the times and offers every modern convenience with glimpses of Victorian grandeur. Its Kailyard restaurant is run by chef Nick Nairn. Rooms from £106.
Self-catering: A short stroll from the station is Cobbler’s cottage, a cute, welcoming and stylish home from home that sleeps four. From £65 a night. Go to Airbnb.com for details.
Famous faces
The Murrays aren’t the only well-known folk to live in Dunblane.
Cypriot-born hotel magnate Sir Reo Stakis made his home in the grounds of Dunblane Hydro and is buried in the town.
Sir John Reith lived in Dunblane as a newly-wed just before setting up the BBC and being appointed its first director general.
Scotland's Insider Guide: Ullapool
What to do nearby
Built around 1400 by Scotland’s Regent, the Duke of Albany, Doune Castle is now best known for its scene-stealing appearances in everything from Game of Thrones and Outlander, to Monty Python and the Holy Grail (the audio guide is narrated by Python Terry Jones). Tour highlights include the impressive great hall and kitchen, and the spectacular views from the battlements over the River Teith and beyond. Go to historicenvironment.scot for more information. Just a five-minute drive away is the Scottish Antique and Arts Centre (scottish-antiques.com), one of the country's biggest vintage and antique emporiums.
Ever wondered how glass is shaped and coloured into the beautiful and practical objects? Find out with a class at Scotland Glassblowing, the studio run by artist Elin Isaksson. Even if you don’t fancy giving it a go yourself, the shop is definitely worth a visit (scotlandglassblowing.com).
Foodies may also wish to take a trip to Wagyu House in nearby Bridge of Allan (wagyuhouse.co.uk), where you can buy beef from locally-farmed Japanese Wagyu cows, breeds reputed to produce some of the best meat in the world.
In the next few weeks I'll be visiting Stonehaven, Linlithgow and Nairn. Send your hints and tips for things to do and places to eat, drink and stay, with a few lines about what makes them so memorable, to marianne.taylor@heraldandtimes.co.uk
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