THE weather has turned, and as most of us yearn to soak in the warmth of the sun, we need to brave the cooler breeze. This was a time of year I loved in Southern Pakistan. Autumnal winds bought with them the aromas of smoky, spiced comfort food. This recipe – which originates in Afghani kitchens – reminds me most of my hometown, Karachi, a city that celebrates its multi-ethnicity through its cuisine. Wholesome and fragrant, this unusual chicken dish steams away in your kitchen, enveloping your home with the delectable aroma of whole garam masala and the soothing and nurturing earthy smell of rice, while the sweet yet sour crunchy carrots and tangy black currants will add a unique flavour to this dish. This recipe is one of my mum's, and for me it conjures up relaxing summery lunches on the patio under the big parasol, sipping iced nimbu pani (fresh Pakistani lemonade).

While the flavours are simple, the trick that takes time to master is the art of cooking rice under steam, or "dam" as it’s is known in Urdu. This is a concept of cooking that is borrowed from the Mughals, and it is used in cooking biryanis and many rich meat and vegetable dishes in the sub-continent. The method involves allowing the steam within the pot to cook the food, covered over very low heat. The idea is to maintain the heat to such a degree that the rice does not burn at the bottom of the pan, which is why I do give it a few stirs now and then. Remember, though, that too much stirring tends to break up the grains of rice. You need to discover the art of cooking the rice so that it is neither over-cooked nor under-cooked. Under-cooking is still fixable but over-cooking is not! I am afraid trial and error is the only path to success with this technique.

A recipe borrowed from an Afghani neighbour, it was often made by my mother, and as she cooked, the kitchen would come alive with the astringent aroma of cardamom, which I am told is the most used spiced in Afghani cuisine. This dish is popular in Pakistan and, over the years, has found its way into our cuisine via the border thanks to the influence of many refugees over the years. As such, it's become as much a part of our repertoire as theirs. The richness that immigrants and refugees bring in terms of cuisine to new lands is undeniable and must be celebrated; this world is no longer for the one-dimensional palate.

Afghani Kabuli Pullao

(Spiced lamb rice with caramelised carrots and raisins)

Serves 6-8

Takes 2½ hours to prepare

150ml vegetable oil

1 large red onion, chopped finely

800g lamb leg or shoulder, on the bone, cut into three-inch pieces

3 tsp crushed garlic

4 tsp grated ginger

Salt to taste

1-2 litres of water

70g caster sugar

2 tsp garam masala

(Make fresh by grinding together 1 tsp each of cloves, green cardamom, 4 bay leaves and ½ inch cinnamon)

1 tsp freshly ground cardamom

800g long-grain basmati rice, soaked in cold water for 1 hour to overnight – then parboiled in hot salted water

20g carrots, peeled and cut into thin batons

70 g sultanas/raisins

A handful of almonds and pistachios, silvered – to garnish

Method:

Heat half the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and cook the onion for until golden brown. Next, add the ginger, garlic, 1 tbsp of the salt and cook until the raw smell leaves the pan

Then add lamb and cook until meat is sealed and light brown (about 10 minutes). Add about 1 litre of water, reduce heat to low and skim surface occasionally, until lamb is tender (about 1 hour). Remove lamb from pan and set aside. Reserve the stock.

Using another saucepan, heat over medium flame and add half the sugar. Cook, shaking pan, for 5-6 minutes or until sugar has caramelised. Carefully add half the stock, 1 tsp of garam masala and a little ground cardamom. Bring to the boil, then remove from heat and set aside.

Drain the parboiled rice and return to the empty stock pan. Pour over the caramelised sugar mixture, add a pinch of garam masala and cardamom, and stir until rice is evenly coated.

Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the carrot and remaining sugar and stir for 5 minutes, or until lightly caramelised, then add?the sultanas and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and stir in another pinch of cardamom. Set this aside for later.

Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan until smoking. Pour oil over the rice (enough to cover the rice evenly but not soak it; if you have some stock left over it can be frozen).

Make holes all over rice with the back of a spoon. This allows the rice to steam evenly and cook.

Now sprinkle over the carrot and place the lamb around the rice.

Cover and seal pan with foil and then the lid. Place over high heat and cook for 5 to 10 minutes. Reduce the heat and cook until the steam rises when you lift the lid and the rice is cooked.

To serve, carefully spoon the rice and lamb into a serving platter and scatter with almonds and pistachios and any remaining spiced carrots and raisins.