THE wine-drinking public can be a fickle bunch. There was a time when Chardonnay was the most popular wine in Scottish bars and restaurants. It fell out of favour when the market got flooded with cheaper, badly oaked versions and everyone started drinking Sauvignon Blanc instead. It was the cleaner style of the Sauvignon (made without the use of oak) that attracted the wine enthusiasts and sealed Chardonnay’s fate forever. Please allow me the use of a disclaimer here; the best white wines in the world are still made from the Chardonnay grape, you just need to know where to find them. (Somewhere near the village of Meursault in Burgundy is a good starting point).
Shirley’s soufflé this week is calling out for a Sauvignon, but it would also benefit from a wine that has been influenced by oak. An oaked Sauvignon is a strange idea, but they do exist and they can be excellent. It’s definitely one for the wine geeks as it completely changes your perception of what is normally a safe option from the wine list. Instead of relying on the fresh minerality and the crisp, clean acidity in a classic style of Sauvignon, you’re taking the wine to a whole new level. Careful use of oak will add a touch of wood smoke to your glass as well as an abundance of depth and character.
Let’s look at the ultimate iconic classic, Cloudy Bay. Cloudy Bay was set up in the early eighties by David Hohnen and their Sauvignon Blanc quickly became the wine that everyone wanted to drink. When I worked in Oddbins we were instructed by HQ not to sell more than two bottles to any one customer, such was the demand for this fantastic wine. When David sold up to LVMH, production increased but the standards were maintained and the wine continued to be very popular. What a lot of people don’t realise is that Cloudy Bay produce other wines including a great Pinot Noir and a sublime Chardonnay. And importantly for my wine match to Shirley's menu this week, they make the Te Koko, which is their oaked Sauvignon Blanc.
Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Inverarity One to One, £33.49). The wine is delicately oaked with a bit of batonnage (stirring of the lees) whilst in barrel, but you crucially still get the classic gooseberry element shining through. All in all, it’s a beautifully made and very interesting wine. Definitely one to impress your dinner guests with this weekend.
Pete Stewart is Glasgow director of Inverarity One to One, 185a Bath Street www.inveraritymorton.com
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