The Permit Room, Dishoom
3a St Andrew Square, Edinburgh
What is it? The Permit Room is 1000 miles away from the pub and snooker hall that preceded it. It’s located in the basement of the new award-winning Dishoom restaurant, which boldly occupies two floors overlooking the capital’s St Andrew Square. It has been created to pay homage to the Bombay-originated tradition of Parsi theatre. The name itself comes from the Bombay Prohibition Act of 1949, which states that all tipplers are required to have a permit to consume alcohol. No expense has been spared on the decor and furnishings, which, along with the music and offering, transport you to another place and time.
Interesting fact: Known for its crazy plots and eccentric characters, Parsi theatre drew thousands of people to the Pila House district of Bombay. The Dishoom team actually visited Mumbai institutions like Capitol Theatre and the Royal Opera House to research the Permit Room’s design. They collaborated with Mumbai author Meher Marfatia to carefully curate the artwork that decorates the walls: authentic photos of famous Parsi playwrights and heroes of Parsi theatre, as well as original theatre posters.
Verdict: There are already four successful Dishoom restaurants in London, which have grown a large loyal following since 2010. So I was pretty excited to visit to check out this new bar. I popped upstairs first for a bite to eat and loved it: same friendly, knowledgeable and relaxed atmosphere I had experienced in the London venues. But I wasn’t just here for the food so headed to the stairs and into the basement to check out The Permit Room. The decor, music and general vibe is like stepping back in time and across continents – until you hear the Scottish accents. I think this is a great addition to the Edinburgh bar scene, which is a hard one to make an impact on. Excellent drinks, service and a 3am licence, which could definitely bring in a crowd of folk who don’t want to go to a nightclub after 1am.
Drink: Dishoom’s award-winning Daru-walla (it means the drinks guy), Carl Brown, has created a new list of cocktails especially for the Permit Room. Brown looks after the group's other bars and has researched libraries, articles, museums, and theatres to gather all sorts of detail that he and the bar team used to inspire the drink recipes. It was also great to see a real focus on non-alcoholic cocktails that weren’t just smoothies or fresh juices. I loved the Sober Martini with juniper, ginger and gentian root in grape and cucumber waters, which was delicious.
Food: The food here is addictive and will have you thinking about it for a long time after you dine. My go-to is the Chicken Ruby, a good and proper curry with spice and flavour. Tender chicken in a rich silky “makhani” sauce, best mopped up with a Roomali Roti for £8.50
Prices: All in line with Edinburgh city centre prices.
Children: I don’t believe the wee ones are allowed down here, especially until 3am.
Perfect for: Having some of the tastiest Indian food around with a group of friends and then heading down to the basement to let loose a little.
Avoid if: You are more of a traditional pub person.
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