Cider ain't what it used to be. The days of cheap and nasty teenager-friendly bevvy juice are gone.
They might be a few years behind the craft beer brewers, but the new wave of cider producers are making traditional, dry, whole-juice ciders with heritage apple varieties that don't need any added sugar or artificial flavourings to taste delicious.
Cider makers are also setting their sights on the sophisticated palates of food lovers, keen cooks, and gastronomic explorers. Cider makes for a refreshing, palate cleansing alternative to a glass of beer, but for this week's column we're taking things to the next level and exploring how cider works at the dinner table.
Little Pomona Feat of Clay 2015 (£4.50, 50cl/7.2%)
The newest kid on the block, a Herefordshire producer called Little Pomona, which had its Scottish launch just two weeks ago at the Good Spirits Co., is a great example of food-friendly new wave cider. Pomona is the brainchild of James and Susanna Forbes, and their mantra is "natural cider, from bud to bottle". Their Herefordshire ciders are bone dry, naturally fermented brews which pair fabulously with a wide range of flavours. Co-founder Susanna Forbes explains: "We wanted to create something that speaks of the apples it’s created from and the land and the community they emerge from. Meeting Simon Day of Dragon Orchard and tasting his ciders ‘made for the table’ was pivotal. Our inaugural release, Feat of Clay 2015, is a great aperitif, but it also pairs well with soft or salty cheese, and it really sings when matched with white fish and romesco sauce."
West Milton Dorset Twilight (£3.40 , 50cl/6%)
Nick and Dawn Poole have been making cider in Dorset since 2000 and are involved in the preservation and propagation of nearly-lost heritage apple varieties. They also make some very tasty ciders. It might be a cliche, but we really do think you should pair this with a Ploughman's – it matches the hard cheddar and tangy pickles brilliantly.
Oliver's Classic Perry (£3.60, 50cl/5%)
Perry, if you don't know it, is cider's lighter, more floral cousin. Tom Oliver is, to many people, the world's best cider maker, and he's also a dab hand with Perry pears. Try this off-dry, firm example with spicy Asian cuisine, or in fact anything spicy. Who needs Riesling?
Ross on Wye Somerset Redstreak (£3.60, 50cl/6%)
We love the huge range of single varietal ciders that Mike Johnson of Ross-on-Wye produces. They run the spectrum from the most tannic, chewy and funky of scrumpies such as his Balls Bittersweet to the delicate, champagne-like Gin Pear Perry. Somerset Redstreak is a popular variety with many producers for its soft, approachable style. Pair with a herby sausage and lentil casserole. For next-level flavours, use sausages made with apples.
Ross on Wye Suzie-Wong (£3.50, 50cl/5.3%)
Another gem from Mike Johnson. This medium-sweet lightly sparkling cider is far too easy to drink by itself – instead, have a glass with a slice of tarte tatin and take it to the next level.
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