Travel: Portavadie

Dug out at astronomical cost to oil chiefs during the boom of the 70s, the new marina seemed to be a perfect use of the village’s easy access to deep water for the construction of concrete North Sea rig platforms.

It may be stretching a metaphor too far, but the seismic depth of Watt’s cultural footprint can also ultimately claim credit for what was the world’s largest man-made hole at the time of its creation. So jobs, industry, wealth, repopulation - what could go wrong at Portavadie?

The alarmed cooncil penpushers who realised treacherous tides at Loch Fyne posed far too much of a risk for floating huge platforms out to sea intervened too late – the project had been completed and, farcically, many new homes to accommodate future workers had also been constructed.

An abandoned village and a cavernous hole in the ground could possibly serve as a clichéd premise for horror fiction, but certainly a far more stirring tale lies behind the visionary transformation of the site over the following decades.

Portavadie’s reinvention as a luxury destination for rest, respite and leisure began in 2007. Since then, the complex has steadily evolved into a sprawling world-class marina with over 230 berths, an award-winning restaurant, informal family-oriented eatery, architecturally stunning luxury apartments, a well-stocked shop, homely lodges, spacious pet-friendly cottages and private romantic hideaways for discerning couples.

As gateway to some of the best sailing waters on the west coast of Scotland, the marina is in close proximity to the Kyles of Bute and lies only ten miles from the Crinan Canal - the opening to the west coast and Hebrides.

It was with these not insignificant scenes in the windscreen that my family and I recently trundled west to Portavadie, traversing ‘Argyll’s secret coast’ down a road so long and winding it could turn Paul McCartney’s hair grey again.

We were visiting to experience the opulence trumpeted by a recent multi-million spa and leisure development, which boasts a 16-metre indoor pool, outdoor spa pools, two Scandinavian saunas, a Precor-equipped gymnasium and - last but certainly not least - the largest heated outdoor ‘infinity’ pool in Scotland. This hyperbolic moniker describes the illusion of continuity when taking a dip surrounded in full panorama by Loch Fyne and the magnificent Kyles of Bute.

It has to be said that Portavadie’s latest addition is a wonderfully modern, light-filled family friendly facility which brings something very special indeed to the table. The building is spread out over two floors, offering breathtaking floor-to-ceiling views outdoors - inviting the scenic splendour of the surroundings straight into the heart of the complex.

“We were all so proud to see those beautiful glass doors open to guests and visitors,” general manager Iain Jorgensen told me. “Guests have been totally blown away by the setting and facilities. The team have created a stunning relaxation and wellness space and the aim is to offer the ultimate in luxury.”

Taking a cue from L’Oreal, ‘you’re worth it’ seems to be the overriding trope at Portavadie. Countless spa treatment options swiftly convince you to hand over your body for an hour, with generously proportioned massage rooms benefitting from high end equipment and furnishings. An impressive sound and lighting system creates an immersive atmosphere of new age ambiance and sets the agenda for switching off from reality.

For all the indulgent creams, wraps and rubs promising to renew your sparkle, the truth remains that you are what you eat and papering over the cracks is futile without good nutrition. That fully heeded, Portavadie boasts three excellent restaurant experiences, each providing a range of freshly prepared food for all tastes using seasonal local produce.

Nestled on the shores of Loch Fyne, Portavadie draws upon the riches of this world famous natural seafood larder in many dishes; ranging from hearty home-cooked favourites in the family-orientated Lodge Kitchen to classy waterfront dining in the more formal Marina restaurant. Not to be outdone, the Spa and Leisure Cafe offers up delicious home-churned ice cream, handmade stone-baked pizzas, light lunches (be sure to try the freshly-prepared Bento Boxes) and snacks for a relaxed culinary experience.

Burning off such gastronomic exorbitance is very much a natural progression at Portavadie, with an impressive range of activities taking full advantage of the location. Mountain biking, kayaking, walking and sailing are the order of the day, organised by the friendly and enthusiastic site team. If all that seems a bit too vigorous, simply exploring the area on foot and appreciating the dramatic palette of the Argyll landscape is a genuine treat in itself.

The excess certainly doesn’t stop when you return to your accommodation after a hard day’s indulgence. If you’re anything like me, having a sizeable private sauna suite in the room is always absolutely non-negotiable - as the incensed emails I’ve sent off to Lenny Henry over Travelodge’s omission of such facilities will attest. Fortunately, there is no such slumming it at Portavadie’s luxury apartments - your very own spacious steam room is on hand, so hot and sweaty you’ll be picking your tattoos up off the floor.

The complex's slow but respectful transformation over the last few decades is certainly illustrative of the long game being played in regards to change. Integrating new ideas only when the concept is thoroughly thought out, intrinsically designed and perfectly tuned to compliment the natural landscape has only been to Portavadie's credit.

The vision driving this ongoing evolution of what was once Scotland’s biggest engineering white elephant stands as a testament to not only our ability to affect substantial positive change in the natural environment, but also demonstrates how silver linings can sometimes be revealed in even the darkest clouds. Or deepest holes.

The next few decades are sure to see expositional growth as the name Portavadie anchors itself into mass consciousness, but today, whether you're are looking for a family break, a romantic weekend or an active holiday with friends, this secret corner of Argyll created from chaos should now be considered a prime haven for luxurious indulgence.

By remaining respectful of the awe-inspiring location and capitalising upon its truly unique qualities, future success is secured. Nothing lasts forever, but Portavadie is certainly built to endure.

Bill Bain was a guest of Portavadie, Loch Fyne, Argyll, PA21 2DA. Tel: 01700 811075. Website: www.portavadiemarina.com Email: info@portavadiemarina.com

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Cycling: The country roads and forest tracks of Argyll’s Secret Coast are perfect for cycling and mountain biking. A 10-mile trail starting at Kames and heading round Ardlamont Point is one of the routes that all the family can easily tackle.

Sailing: The Kyles of Bute and Loch Fyne are world renowned for sailing. Islands, harbours, safe anchorages and good shore-side facilities are within easy reach, while the entrance to the Crinan Canal at nearby Ardrishaig opens up the west coast and islands beyond.

Walking: The area around Portavadie is ideal for walking - from coastal strolls to long-distance routes. The most famous is the Cowal Way, which begins at Portavadie and ends at Inveruglas on the shores of Loch Lomond.

Fishing: At the height of the summer, seafood around Portavadie is plentiful. Visitors can fish off the rocks, local piers or by taking a boat trip. There are three well stocked lochs only five minutes’ drive from Portavadie where you can fish for trout.

Water Adventure: Water Adventure at Portavadie is a must do activity, suitable for the whole family. The top of the range Highfield RIB can accommodate up to seven passengers in comfort while providing an exhilarating, safe water experience on Loch Fyne.

NOTHING lasts forever. Change is inevitable and time twists all form into fresh guise, a tireless onslaught mocking any notions of permanence.

Yet it’s really only since James Watt kickstarted the industrial revolution that technological ingenuity has gifted us lowly shaved apes with the powers of environmental reinvention - of which the artificial coastal basin of Portavadie in Argyll is a shining example.

Dug out at astronomical cost to oil chiefs during the boom of the 70s, the new marina seemed to be a perfect use of the village’s easy access to deep water for the construction of concrete North Sea rig platforms.

It may be stretching a metaphor too far, but the seismic depth of Watt’s cultural footprint can also ultimately claim credit for what was the world’s largest man-made hole at the time of its creation. So jobs, industry, wealth, repopulation - what could go wrong at Portavadie?

The alarmed cooncil penpushers who realised treacherous tides at Loch Fyne posed far too much of a risk for floating huge platforms out to sea intervened too late – the project had been completed and, farcically, many new homes to accommodate future workers had also been constructed.

An abandoned village and a cavernous hole in the ground could possibly serve as a clichéd premise for horror fiction, but certainly a far more stirring tale lies behind the visionary transformation of the site over the following decades.

Portavadie’s reinvention as a luxury destination for rest, respite and leisure began in 2007. Since then, the complex has steadily evolved into a sprawling world-class marina with over 230 berths, an award-winning restaurant, informal family-oriented eatery, architecturally stunning luxury apartments, a well-stocked shop, homely lodges, spacious pet-friendly cottages and private romantic hideaways for discerning couples.

As gateway to some of the best sailing waters on the west coast of Scotland, the marina is in close proximity to the Kyles of Bute and lies only ten miles from the Crinan Canal - the opening to the west coast and Hebrides.

It was with these not insignificant scenes in the windscreen that my family and I recently trundled west to Portavadie, traversing ‘Argyll’s secret coast’ down a road so long and winding it could turn Paul McCartney’s hair grey again.

We were visiting to experience the opulence trumpeted by a recent multi-million spa and leisure development, which boasts a 16-metre indoor pool, outdoor spa pools, two Scandinavian saunas, a Precor-equipped gymnasium and - last but certainly not least - the largest heated outdoor ‘infinity’ pool in Scotland. This hyperbolic moniker describes the illusion of continuity when taking a dip surrounded in full panorama by Loch Fyne and the magnificent Kyles of Bute.

It has to be said that Portavadie’s latest addition is a wonderfully modern, light-filled family friendly facility which brings something very special indeed to the table. The building is spread out over two floors, offering breathtaking floor-to-ceiling views outdoors - inviting the scenic splendour of the surroundings straight into the heart of the complex.

“We were all so proud to see those beautiful glass doors open to guests and visitors,” general manager Iain Jorgensen told me. “Guests have been totally blown away by the setting and facilities. The team have created a stunning relaxation and wellness space and the aim is to offer the ultimate in luxury.”

Taking a cue from L’Oreal, ‘you’re worth it’ seems to be the overriding trope at Portavadie. Countless spa treatment options swiftly convince you to hand over your body for an hour, with generously proportioned massage rooms benefitting from high end equipment and furnishings. An impressive sound and lighting system creates an immersive atmosphere of new age ambiance and sets the agenda for switching off from reality.

For all the indulgent creams, wraps and rubs promising to renew your sparkle, the truth remains that you are what you eat and papering over the cracks is futile without good nutrition. That fully heeded, Portavadie boasts three excellent restaurant experiences, each providing a range of freshly prepared food for all tastes using seasonal local produce.

Nestled on the shores of Loch Fyne, Portavadie draws upon the riches of this world famous natural seafood larder in many dishes; ranging from hearty home-cooked favourites in the family-orientated Lodge Kitchen to classy waterfront dining in the more formal Marina restaurant. Not to be outdone, the Spa and Leisure Cafe offers up delicious home-churned ice cream, handmade stone-baked pizzas, light lunches (be sure to try the freshly-prepared Bento Boxes) and snacks for a relaxed culinary experience.

Burning off such gastronomic exorbitance is very much a natural progression at Portavadie, with an impressive range of activities taking full advantage of the location. Mountain biking, kayaking, walking and sailing are the order of the day, organised by the friendly and enthusiastic site team. If all that seems a bit too vigorous, simply exploring the area on foot and appreciating the dramatic palette of the Argyll landscape is a genuine treat in itself.

The excess certainly doesn’t stop when you return to your accommodation after a hard day’s indulgence. If you’re anything like me, having a sizeable private sauna suite in the room is always absolutely non-negotiable - as the incensed emails I’ve sent off to Lenny Henry over Travelodge’s omission of such facilities will attest. Fortunately, there is no such slumming it at Portavadie’s luxury apartments - your very own spacious steam room is on hand, so hot and sweaty you’ll be picking your tattoos up off the floor.

The complex's slow but respectful transformation over the last few decades is certainly illustrative of the long game being played in regards to change. Integrating new ideas only when the concept is thoroughly thought out, intrinsically designed and perfectly tuned to compliment the natural landscape has only been to Portavadie's credit.

The vision driving this ongoing evolution of what was once Scotland’s biggest engineering white elephant stands as a testament to not only our ability to affect substantial positive change in the natural environment, but also demonstrates how silver linings can sometimes be revealed in even the darkest clouds. Or deepest holes.

The next few decades are sure to see expositional growth as the name Portavadie anchors itself into mass consciousness, but today, whether you're are looking for a family break, a romantic weekend or an active holiday with friends, this secret corner of Argyll created from chaos should now be considered a prime haven for luxurious indulgence.

By remaining respectful of the awe-inspiring location and capitalising upon its truly unique qualities, future success is secured. Nothing lasts forever, but Portavadie is certainly built to endure.

Bill Bain was a guest of Portavadie, Loch Fyne, Argyll, PA21 2DA. Tel: 01700 811075. Website: www.portavadiemarina.com Email: info@portavadiemarina.com