In a break from craft beer, this week we look to Scotland's burgeoning craft gin, which, like beer, has enjoyed bit of a makeover in recent years. Scottish craft distillers have been popping up all over the country, buoyed by the explosion in craft beer and whisky, and using their skills and stills to open up the juniper floodgates.

But gin distilling in Scotland is not a new phenomenon: about 70% of the UK’s gin is produced north of the Border, and that was before the arrival of the likes of Eden Mill, Pickering’s and Makar.

Launched in 2013 by Marcus Pickering and Matthew Gammell, Pickering’s proclaims itself to be Edinburgh’s first gin distiller in 150 years. It’s a splendid title but they have a couple of better ones: their eponymous gin shook up the spirit world earlier this year when it won gold at both the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and the World Spirit Awards in Denmark. Not bad for a wee outfit based in a converted kennels at the back of the Summerhall arts centre.

Pickering’s have added another two gins to their core line-up, a navy strength version of the original, and the robust and spicy 1947, derived from a recipe handed to Marcus’s family in Bombay more than 60 years ago. The recipe itself is there for all to see, framed and hanging on the walls of the distillery at the back of the Summerhall arts hub in Edinburgh.

The 1947 is a spicy 42% Bombay style gin, made with cardamon, coriander, clove and cinnamon. The aroma is citrus heavy and bittersweet, while the initial flavours of juniper are quickly followed by complex spices before a rush of prickly pepperiness and then settling into a succulent zesty yet dry finish. It’s great neat – and it’s bold enough to appease whisky drinkers – but makes a refreshing G&T with lime instead of lemon.

FIVE OTHER GREAT GINS TO ENJOY

Shetland Reel Gin (43%) by Shetland Distilling Company

While Pickering’s Gin took gold at the World Spirits Competition, Shetland Reel Gin slipped in behind to take silver. Smooth and sippable, Shetland’s offering to the gin revolution is another clean juniper-led offering, with a fruity opening, heaps of coriander and some of the locally sourced apple mint making an appearance towards the dry and herbal finish. Enjoy with grapefruit.

Crossbill (43.8%) by Crossbill Highland Distilling

Housed in a wooden shed in a forest in Cairngorm National Park, Crossbill’s no-nonsense premises translate into a straightforward approach to their gin. Crossbill’s made with locally sourced juniper and rosehip only so this one changes with the harvests. Unsurprisingly juniper-led, there’s also hints of pine and a kiss of fruitiness from the rosehip.

Rock Rose (41.5%) by Dunnet Bay Distillers

Made in the very far north of Scotland, the Caithness distillery’s gin boats some 18 botanicals, with about five or six sourced locally, one of which, the rose root, lends the gin its name. The floral aromas are there, but flavours of tart wild berries, pine and citrus present themselves too. Smooth and delicate, but with a robust character, much like rose root itself.

Makar (43%) by Glasgow Distillery Company

One of the more juniper-heavy gins around, Glasgow’s first gin is rounded off by the addition of a half dozen or so other botanicals, including cassia bark, rosemary, lemon zest and coriander, helping to round off the juniper with notes of citrus, pine and earthy spiciness.

Hop Gin (46%) by Eden Mill St Andrews

Eden Mill have brought out a broad range of gins and whiskies in recent years, but it’s their Hop Gin that gives a wee nod to the brewery origins. Made with the conventional gin botanicals of juniper, coriander and liquorice, it’s then been dry-hopped with Australian galaxy hops enhancing the spirit with delicious citrus and apricot aromas that will be familiar to many craft beer drinkers.